In which the remainder of my overtime pay gets spent

Although I'd love to take an SLR with a range of lenses, flash, filters, and tripod, it wouldn't really work with my style of hiking. Aside from the weight and bulk, if I have to spend 10 minutes setting up a photo, I probably won't bother to stop. On the other hand, if I have a camera in my pocket ready to go, I'll probably end up with a decent amount of good quality photos.

With the decision made to bring a small and portable, rather than large professional quality camera, there's still a number of other options - but the largest one is probably film vs. digital.
Film cameras, although becoming obsolete for anyone other than a traditionalist or specialist, do offer some benefits over digital. Weight, price, and durability to name three. A moderate quality, feature sparse film camera can be had for under $50, weighs a couple of ounces, and can survive most punishment you throw at it. A lot of them don't need batteries unless you want to use the flash, offering further weight savings (not to mention 6 months on a thru-hike without having to recharge). On the downside, you have to buy film, carry plenty of it, and pay to have it developed.

Digital cameras are generally heavier than film cameras, there's no getting around that. Up until now, I usually carried a Kodak EasyShare DX4900, at nearly 10 oz. including battery, memory card, and wrist strap. Although I've had excellent results, often comparable to pictures taken with much higher end cameras, I had to keep it in a padded case, waterproof bag, and be extremely careful around sand and wet areas. It is also fairly bulky, and feels uncomfortable in a pocket. The advantages of a digital camera, including holding hundreds of photos, still made it worth it to me over a film camera.

Last week, I decided it was time to replace the aging Kodak with something more suited to the outdoors. I did quite a lot of research online, and narrowed it down to either the Olympus Stylus 850 SW or the Pentax Optio W30. Both cameras came in at roughly the same price, and had a pretty similar feature set. Both are water and dust proof, lightweight (around 5 oz inclusive), and small enough to fit in a pocket.

I went into my local camera store and asked the clerk to help me narrow down my selection to one camera. He suggested that the Olympus had one major advantage: it was shock proof as well as waterproof. Knowing how rough I can be on gear in the outdoors, this sounded like a great feature. I paid the man, came home, and crossed another 5 oz. off my gear list!
In two weeks I head off for a section hike of the Pacific Crest Trail, so I'll be sure to post some photos and a review of the camera when I return.

Spring Gear Splurge

Last year, I finished the season with a respectable base weight of around 16 pounds. While discussing our upcoming Pacific Crest Trail section hike, I proudly mentioned this to Paul. "Wow," he said, "that's a pretty heavy base weight." Ouch, there goes my ego!
I've recently worked a lot of overtime, so I have a bit of extra spending money. Well, I did, until 15 minutes after Paul's comment. I've ordered a new pack (Mountain Laurel Super Prophet), water bladder (Platypus Big Zip 1.8L), mattress (Gossamer Gear NightLight), Wind Jacket (GoLite Ether), and a few other bits & pieces. I've also tweaked some of my existing gear, including streamlining my first aid kit, repackaging hygiene items, and eliminating items unnecessary for the specific locale.

The verdict? My base weight is under 10 pounds! I've posted a spreadsheet, please feel free to take a look and offer any suggestions. I plan to review all of the new gear, and detail the optimization steps to get to this weight.

Henry Shires Tarptent

I got my new Henry Shires Tarptent in the mail yesterday. I will write a field report once I test it out, but for now here's a preview.

Based on conversations with Tarptent owners on the TLB Forums I decided to go with the Double Rainbow. I wanted a 2-person, lightweight shelter that could be set up with minimal amount of staking. The Double Rainbow fits the bill perfectly, as it is free-standing (with the use of two trekking poles) or can be staked out for more versatility.

The included instructions were a little bit confusing to start with, but in the end the setup was fast and straight forward. One long shock-corded pole is threaded through a sleeve, and inserted into a grommet at each end. The poles then sit on top of the extended trekking poles that lie horizontally on the ground, and are secured in place by velcro tabs. Four cords are then attached to the ends of the poles to secure the floor, completing the setup. In ideal conditions this should only take 2 or 3 minutes, but I can see needing two people and a bit of fiddling in windy/rainy conditions.

I was expecting to feel more exposed inside, considering this is a "tarp tent" rather than a tent, but the name is deceiving. The entire exterior can be pulled down and secured, resulting in a seemingly bombproof enclosure, but with a quick reconfigure can be ventilated, opened up to create "beaks" or vestibules, and an array of other configurations to suit the terrain and conditions.

Of course, the best part about the Double Rainbow is the weight. 2.5 pounds for a two-man shelter is fantastic! My current tent, the MEC Merganser, with groundsheet, comes closer to 8 pounds, so this is a significant reduction. This means my hiking partner and I can each lower our pack weights by nearly 3 pounds.

My next trip is the West Coast Trail in August, and I'm a bit apprehensive of taking the Tarptent into such wet, rugged conditions on its first outing. I had hoped to get it last weekend when I did a one-nighter on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail with my brother, but unfortunately Canada Customs decided they needed 9 days (and $11.27) to determine that the tent wasn't made from cocaine. Perhaps some backyard camping with the sprinkler on will serve as a test. Stay tuned for updates!

Twig Stove

In my continuing quest to lighten my load, I recently came across an article describing how to make a twig stove out of a coffee can. This weekend I followed the plans (using a tomato can instead of a coffee can, as I'm a whole-bean snob) and took it on a day hike to test out by cooking some soup for lunch.

The construction was relatively simple, taking approximately 10 to 15 minutes. I added a couple of extra steps such as filing the ends of the pot supports round so they wouldn't tear any gear, and doing the same to any other sharp or pointy bits.

On the trail, it took only a moment to find the necessary firewood (one small bundle of twigs, broken down to fit the width of the can. A section of newspaper provided the firestarter, although I would probably take some firestarter material on a longer hike, in case no dry kindling was available.

Within a few seconds the wood took, and I added my pot with 2 cups of water to the top. It was neccessary to keep adding kindling for about 6 or 7 minutes, never allowing more than a minute to pass before adding more wood. There was a slight breeze that helped the fire along, but it's possible if the wood wasn't bone dry that I might have to blow on it occasionally.

My soup cooked up easily, although not as fast as Ian's (he brought his cannister stove). Shadow was content to eat her cold lunch, as she was ravenous after the 2 hour hike in over Mount Maguire in East Sooke Park.

Full of tasty food, we hiked another couple of hours back to the car at Anderson Cove and went home exhausted. As for the twig stove, I think it is definitely something I will use again in the future. I wouldn't want to rely on it as my only cooking source, but maybe on a two-person hike, one person could bring a canister stove as a backup, using the twig stove whenever possible to limit the amount of fuel needed. A potential savings of half a pound in fuel.

Sleeping Bags: down vs. synthetic

A good sleeping bag can last you many years, and at $200 or more is a considerable investment. Before purchasing a new sleeping bag, do as much research as you possibly can: read reviews, talk to an experienced outfitter, and get recommendations from people who hike in the same conditions and areas as yourself.

In this entry I'm only going to address one issue: my preference of fill (down or synthetic). I've tried both kinds of bags in all kinds of conditions, and have definately joined the pro-down team, for the following reasons:

• Weight: A quality down bag is lighter than a comparable synthetic fill.
• Compactability: Down bags compress well, freeing up valuable pack space. (Don't use a compression sack if you can avoid it, check with the manufacturer for packing guidelines)
• Loft: With careful storage and maintenance, a down bag will retain its loft for many years. Be certain the bag has adequate baffles to avoid any shifting of the fill.

Drawbacks

• Down offers no insulating value when wet, so it's very important to keep your bag dry. Use a quality stuff sack, then wrap in a garbage back. If you're going into very wet conditions, consider an overbag.
• Down is more expensive than synthetic fills, but as a sleeping bag will last you many years, the extra value here is worth it.

For the past few years I've been using a GoLite 700 fill down bag, in all sorts of conditions. I'm careful about keeping it dry, but the exterior has a moisture-resistant coating so a small amount of condensation doesn't do any damage.

Tips

• Treat your sleeping bag with more care than any other piece of gear. Check the manufacturer's web site for cleaning and care instructions, and only use the highest quality cleaning products. I use Nikwax Down Wash once a year, handwashing in the bathtub with lukewarm water, then tumble drying on low until 100% dry. Your requirements may vary.
• At home, always store your sleeping bag in a large cotton bag (the good bags will come with one), hung in a ventilated closet.
• On the trail, unpack your sleeping bag as soon as you arrive at camp, and allow it to regain its loft in the sun if possible, or in your tent. Keep it away from the fire, one small hole will allow moisture to penetrate the outer layer.
• Compact with care: don't use a compression bag.
• Don't assume that because it isn't raining, your bag can't get wet (see photo below!)

Leatherman Squirt P4

Last summer I bought a Leatherman Squirt P4 multitool, and have been quite happy with it. It was the smallest, lightest tool I could find within my price range, and the Leatherman brand came well recommended. I was worried that I would miss a longer knife blade, especially as the only cutlery I take hiking is a lexan spoon, but I haven't really missed it.

This past winter, while walking the dog in my neighbourhood, I stopped to help a little boy who was quite distraught and near tears. Somehow, while on an errand to the mailbox for his mom, he had gotten the mailbox door locked with the keychain halfway inside. His eyes lit up when I pulled out my Leatherman Squirt, unfolded it to magically create pliers, and, with some effort, freed his keys. Unfortunately, and possibly due to the below-freezing temperature, one of the arms of the pliers broke off in the process.

Yesterday afternoon, while packing for this weekend's hike, I realized I hadn't replaced the Squirt yet, so started to research a good replacement. A lot of reviews remarked on Leatherman's generous warranty. It hadn't occured to me to take it back, as I figured the Squirt, being a "miniature" tool, wouldn't be covered for breakages involving force. Deciding it couldn't hurt, I took it into MEC today where they happily exchanged it for the display model (they were out of stock) with no questions asked. I didn't have my receipt, but they were able to verify the purchase through my membership number.

Leatherman and Mountain Equipment Co-op definately earned some points with me today.

Packing

It's 3 sleeps until we hit the trail, so time to do a test pack to see how everything feels. I am a big fan of checklists, and keep a text file on my computer with a general list, modify it for the season and duration of the hike, then save it with the trail name and date for future reference. I also like to make notes of possible ways to reduce weight for future trips, and after the hike will update it with any wishes.

This packing list should only be used as a guideline, as everyones needs will vary. I'm including the weights of items so it's easy to target the biggest culprits. The first useful pack list I saw on my discovery of lightweight backpacking was the 27 pound, 7 day checklist at backpacking.net. It gives me something to work towards, and lets me know I'm on the right track. Before I made my discovery, my pack was probably over 50 pounds (I wish I'd weighed it back then.. oh well.) and now averages around 20 without food & fuel.

Weights are in ounces, although I think I'll be switching to grams as math is hard. Do you see anything else that I should highlight in red? I'm not prepared to spend $100 to save an ounce or two, but each year I like to reduce one or two things when possible. Luxury items are things I've decided, for this specific hike, are worth the extra weight in the name of enjoyment or comfort. This is a bit of a balancing act, and it's easy to get into the "just one more [random item]" trap.

I should also note that every item listed here goes inside the pack, I don't like anything strapped to the outside. Gear that swings around puts undue strain on your muscles, and on hikes like the Juan de Fuca, which involve lots of scrambling and navigating between trees, nothing should protrude above my head, below my belt, or be wider than my shoulders. On a longer hike I'll start out with the Z-Rest strapped to the outside, but will move it inside as soon as my food bag shrinks a bit.

Colour Key:
Necessary Item (for me)
Luxury Item
Candidate for Weight Reduction

Pack
Silnylon pack cover (2.8)
Gregory Z backpack (50.0)

Tent & Sleep System
5x8 Siltarp [we're hiking in a coastal rainforest, after all] (7.4)
Tent poles, pegs, guy lines in bag (24.0)
Tent body [fly and groundsheet carried by hiking partner] (36.6)
Golite Down sleeping bag in bag (26.2)
Thermarest Z-Lite mattress (14.4)

Clothing
Gaitors (7.0)
Waterproof poncho (10.7)
Gloves (4.5)
MEC Pamir jacket (16.4)
PJ bottoms (10.1)
Fleece top - mid layer (8.1)
Warm, quick-dry shirt (8.5)
Warm camp socks (2.7)
Hiking socks (2.1)
Hiking socks (2.1)
Hiking shirt (4.5)
Hiking shirt (4.5)
Waterproof stuffsac for clothing (4.0)
Sandals (25.8)
Fleece toque (2.1)

Safety/Hygeine
First aid kit (7.4)
Toothbrush (0.7)
Toothpaste (0.5)
Knee brace (2.3)
Toilet paper in waterproof bag (1.8)
Fast-drying towel (0.6)
Sunglasses (2.9)
Water filter and maintenance supplies in mesh bag (17.7)
Alcohol cleaning pads (2.1)
LED headlamp (1.1)
Bug spray (1.5)
Sunscreen (1.0)
Lip balm (0.4)
3 pairs of earplugs (0.1)
Floss (0.1)

Kitchen
Fire starting [lighter, waterproof matches, 2 tealights] (2.0)
Stove in plastic case (3.8)
Fuel (16.0)
Titanium cooking pot in bag (5.4)
Insulated mug with lid (4.5)
3 litre bladder [empty] (8.2)
Lexan fork (0.2)
Lexan spoon (0.2)
Water bottle (1.9)

Misc
Hankerchief (0.8)
Spare boot laces (0.7)
Sharpie marker (0.3)
Camera in waterproof bag (11.6)
Book [thick 1000 pager] (16.7)
JDF Marine Trail Guide + Map (7.2)
ID & Cash in ziploc (0.2)
Cel phone in waterproof bag [off except for emergencies] (3.7)
Notepad & pencil (1.6)

Food
Meals & snacks for 3 nights (48)

Total dry (before food, fuel & water) pack weight is approximately 21 pounds. Of that, nearly 4 pounds are "luxury" items. I'm comfortable with this pack weight, but if it were a longer distance I would definately start to pare down the luxury items. I find an evening around camp with a good book will do wonders for my energy level and motivation, so easily justifies the extra weight. Ideally, I'll find a smaller book to take with me, but I just started Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell and am enjoying it. The camera and notepad are so I can document the trip to entertain you fine folks, and the rest of the luxury items are for my own comfort in the damp coastal conditions.

Footwear

When I was outfitting for my first High Sierra Trail attempt, most of my gear advice was from the staff at an outfitter chain. When it got to footwear, they were quite adamant that a good, sturdy pair of hiking boots was a must for trekking in the mountains. I ended up with some waterproof, all leather mountaineering boots weighing in at just under 4 pounds for the pair. I can't imagine why I got blisters...

For my second Sierra attempt, I did a lot more research, mostly on the Web. A common adage I noticed was "A pound on the foot is worth 5 on the back" or other similar variations. Although the issue seems to be continually debated, hiking shoes were definately winning out with lightweight backpackers. I went to a local, knowledgable outfitter and ended up with a good quality, breathable pair of hiking shoes weighing just over 2 pounds for the pair. If the adage is true, I just shaved nearly 10 pounds off my load! Not to mention they were less than half the price of the boots.

Not wanting to go blindly this time, I tested out the hiking shoes on a lot of local trails, and was absolutely thrilled with the results. They didn't need to be broken in, my feet stayed cool and dry so I didn't get blisters, and the flexibility made scrambling up steep rocky trails much easier. I wore them on my second High Sierra Trail hike, and I'm sure they're a big part of why I enjoyed that hike so much.

I should mention some drawbacks. Not being waterproof, I don't enjoy wearing them on coastal hikes where mud is an issue, and it also takes some getting used to a thinner sole and feeling sharp rocks beneath your feet. For people with weaker ankles or very heavy packs (we'll talk to you later..) you won't get any ankle support with hiking shoes.

For coastal hikes such as the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail and the West Coast Trail (both to be reviewed here soon) I prefer to go with a lightweight boot. I have a pair of Garmont boots that are Goretex and leather, and I absolutely love them. At about 3 pounds for the pair, they aren't too heavy, they are waterproof, and they have ankle support for the slippery coastal rocks and boardwalks.

Summary? Hiking shoes for dry, mountain hikes, and lightweight boots for wet, coastal hikes. Always look after your gear with the appropriate cleaner and waterproofing - I'm personally a big fan of Nikwax products, but I will usually check the manufacturer's web site to see what they recommend.