Take a Load Off - Lightweight Backpacking

PCT Section A (northbound)

2009-05-04T12:17:00.001-07:00

As some of the passes in Section B were still covered in ice and snow, I decided to hike Section A again this year. This time I hiked northbound, so I could spend some time getting to know a few of this year's thru-hikers.

I drove down to Lake Morena, after picking up Freebie, Tomato, and Raw in Portland. After a bit of car trouble on the I-5, we arrived late in the evening on the 23rd and cowboy camped under a tree to avoid the worst of the damp. The next morning, we got a ride down to the border near Campo with Greg "Strider" Hummel, who hiked the PCT in 1978. He told us some entertaining stories about how the trail had changed in the last 2 decades, then sent us on our way after a quick photo shoot at the monument.

Glad to be on the trail after such a long drive, I was fully enjoying every mile of the trail. Rolling, dusty hills with dry scrub and abandoned paraphernalia from the illegal immigrants provide the backdrop while the trail twists around and crosses the local dirt roads of Campo. After a few hours, the trail descends into Hauser Canyon, and at the bottom is a nice shady spot for lunch. Here we met I-Spy, Bootie (still Sarah at this point), and Pockets. I-Spy explained how he had just recently obtained his trail name, after using his monocular to track some illegals.

The hike up the north side of Hauser Canyon is not too steep, but is fairly long and I was fairly low on energy by the end. A few high energy snacks and the last of my water got me through the last stretch before camp, to complete a fun and picturesque 20 miles.

Back at the kick-off party (ADZPCTKO) I settled into a beer or two, and spent the evening chatting with old friends from last year (The Onion, Nitro, Heinz, Duckie, Nano, to name a few) and meeting too many new friends to name. Some people had already been hiking for a week, so we got updates on blisters, water, snow, and the usual trail gossip. Saturday was spent relaxing, eating, and checking out the vendors. Later that evening we got to see the latest installation from Squatch's quadrology, "Walked", as well as the 5-years-in-the-making, yet-to-be-completed first half of "Tell it on the Mountain."

Sunday morning we awoke to frost on the tent (or sleeping bag, in Tomato's case), then packed up ready for the trail. Duckie kindly offered to drive some of our gear to Mt. Laguna, so I gave him my extra food and only had to carry about 11 pounds for the 23 mile section. I opted to keep all of my gear with me in case of any trouble making it there, so technically it wasn't a true "slack-pack" but it certainly was nice. The weather was once again just right for hiking, clearskies but not too hot, and the hiking was brilliant. A few miles before the Mt. Laguna store, we realized it was going to be very tight to make it there before it closed at 5:00. Tomato was having one of his usual ice cream cravings, so he picked up the pace and left us behind. I continued along steadily, and at 4:51 I reached the road junction where it was a half mile walk to the store. I didn't really want anything, but figured an ice cream would be nice, so I switched into a fast walk. A hiker without a pack jogged by me and threw a taunt my way, so for some reason I went into a full sprint and raced him to the store. He beat me, but I still got there with one minute to spare. I had my ice cream while I caught my breath, and spent the next hour loitering on the Mt. Laguna steps as so many hikers have done before me.

As a treat to our thru-hiking friends, Duckie and I rented a cabin to share with Tomato and Freebie. The evening was nice, but we couldn't quite relax as we didn't know where Raw was. Raw had opted to do a complete slack-pack, so Duckie had all of his gear. It was slowly getting darker, colder, and windier. By 7:00 we took a drive around the area to try to find a sign of him, but had no luck. We left messages with campers nearby, and a note on the store message board, but at this point we were actually getting quite worried. Luckily, around 8:00, a truck showed up at our cabin and dropped a very exhausted Raw off. It turns out he had arrived in the area an hour before, but we hadn't been clear on where we were meeting. He eventually got the message from the campers that we were in a cabin, and found us. Now able to relax, we had some pints and helped Raw lighten up his pack a bit.

On Monday we hiked another clear, comfortable temperature day to just North of the Sunrise Trail Head. It was incredibly windy at this point, and finding a sheltered camp site was proving difficult. After getting water at the Sunrise Trail Head, we hiked a few miles further and then found a somewhat-sheltered gully. The wind battered the tent around all night, and I had trouble sleeping until I finally realized I had earplugs with me. This granted me a few hours of uninterrupted sleep, and I woke up refreshed and ready for more miles.

On Tuesday morning the wind had calmed down a little bit, but it was still a bit cool. Tomato, who didn't have the comfort of a tent, made a quick getaway. Freebie and I followed shortly after, and we all met up for lunch. Later on in the day we ran into Buddy Jesus at the Pioneer Mail campground, and he advised us to drink water. His actual words were, "If I can give you one piece of advise on the PCT, it's DRINK WATER." With this morsel to chew on, hilarity ensued for many more miles. We arrived at our destination for the day, Scissors Crossing, in mid afternoon. Not ready to settle down yet, Tomato and I caught a ride into Julian where we enjoyed milkshakes and hung out in the library to catch up on email. The proprieter of the local outfitter gave us a ride back to the trail at 5:30, where we met up with Freebie, I-Spy, Bootie, and pockets. Another windy tent set-up, then pass-the-pigs until we couldn't see any more.

Wednesday was going to be my longest day at 24 miles. It was also the crossing of the San Felipe hills, which, although not steep, is a long and dry stretch. The morning was cool, and we got an early start, so we made the Third Gate water cache for an early lunch siesta. A number of other hikers were here, including Buddy Jesus dropping down some more useful knowledge. We stayed for all we could take, then hiked the rest of the way to Barrel Springs where we were soothed to sleep by the resident frogs.

The last day of my hike was a short 10 miles to Warner Springs. The scenery is drastically different in this brief section, featuring oak forests, rolling meadows (replete with cows), and, arguably the most photographed spot on the trail, Eagle Rock. Tomato and I were both very low on food, so the draw of breakfast at the Warner Springs Country Club was very strong. Freebie proved to be a misnomer as he shared the last of his energy bars with us as we caught some extra photos at Eagle Rock, then we moseyed northwards.

Warner Springs Ranch deserves its own paragraph. A clean, well provisioned resort, they drop all pretense of standards and actually welcome hikers to soil their establishment. Deep discounts and friendly staff get you in the door, and 105 degree hot springs keep you there. We made full use of the amenities, spending countless hours floating around in the hot and slightly-less-hot pools. Although the hiking was incredible, Warner Springs was the icing on the cake for this trip.

Thursday night our gang crammed into my car and we went up to a Mexican Restaurant in the metropolis that is Sunrise Summit. Good food, good drink, and a well aged Christmas Tree mixed with new and old friends made for a fun evening. Another dip in the springs that night, and I started to feel the sadness as I knew all my friends would be resuming their hike northbound in the morning, and all I had to look forward to was a 1000 mile drive. Friday morning we took our time getting up, and had a leisurely breakfast at the golf club. I drove a few folks the 8 miles to the nearest grocery store for a resupply (the Warner Springs gas station isn't bad in a pinch) and then said my goodbyes. I was very jealous, and sad to part with everyone, but was also missing home.

The drive home was pretty uneventful. I drove to just south of Redding on the Friday evening, then got up early and drove the next 800 miles to make it to the ferry by 7:00pm. I just caught the 7, and was home by a little after 9:00 to an empty house. My fiancee went out for the evening as she wasn't expecting me to be home until after 11, whoops!

(Note: I had originally started to blog this hike from my Blackberry on the trail, but really didn't enjoy the experience. I've deleted those posts as they were rather incoherent.)

ADZ again

2009-04-22T22:01:00.001-07:00

I'm currently heading south on the I5, Tomato is driving, and a couple of other thru-hikers are in the back seat. I'm going to try to make some short, daily updates from my blackberry for the next two weeks. Currently the plan is to hike either section a or b of the PCT, but I'll decide at the kickoff.

Today's summary: ferry crossing to port angeles was quite rough, and got in a bit late. I tried to meer up with a friend in Olympia for coffee, but it didn't work out. Saw a truck on fire being chased by a firetruck. Picked up Kevin in Vancouver, wa, then Tomato and lucas in Portland after a brief bit of mandatory getting lost. Lucas had some last minute packing to do, then we hit the road around 7.
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

West Coast Trail

2008-09-08T13:09:00.000-07:00

It started innocently enough. A group of us were sitting around a picnic table at the ADZPCTKO in Lake Morena, sharing hiking stories. I started describing my 2006 hike on the West Coast Trail, and the scenery and ruggedness got the attention of a few. Fortified by beer, 3 or 4 of my new friends expressed interest in a late summer WCT trek.

4 months later, there I was making a trip to the ferry to pick up Brian (Tomato) and Leila (Swifty). My fiancee, Rebecca, kindly offered to drive us all to the Bamfield trail head on Monday, Sept 1. We had a campsite reserved at the beautiful Pachena Bay Campground right by the trail head. After a dinner of campfire-roasted hot dogs and a quiet night by the beach, we said goodbye to Rebecca and Shadow and proceeded to the Parks Canada office for our orientation.

All hikers on the WCT are required to take the 1.5 hour orientation, which is offered 4 times daily. We diligently watched the PowerPoint presentation, grabbed our permits, and hit the trail at 10:45. When starting at the North end of the trail, the terrain is quite easy and the miles go by quickly. Our first stop on the way to Tsocowis (km17) was at the Pachena Lighthouse. The Lighthouse grounds are open for exploration, and panoramic views give a preview of the scenery to come. The guest book entries at the Lighthouse provided much hilarity, and started some running gags that lasted the duration of our trip. You really had to be there to appreciate them.

After a bit more inland hiking, we reach Michigan Creek and the beginning of beach walking. A sealion haulout rock provides ample entertainment for a lunch stop, and we're blown away by the size of these massive creatures. Swifty presented us with a list of wildlife she expects to see on the trail, and the first one is crossed off. Moving on, we explore the shipwrecks of the Michigan and Uzbekistan, as well as some nice rock shelves and tidal pools. The low tide enabled shelf-walking, often referred to as a hiker superhighway. Because we were making such good time, we walked right by our destination and didn't realize our mistake until we reached the impassible Valencia Bluffs. After my cohorts teased their "experienced" route planner, we realized the fortune of our mistake and explored some beautiful waterfalls and rock formations. A short backtrack took us back to Tsocowis and a soft, sandy campsite. The evening presented a stunning sunset and plenty of wood for a fire.

The next morning began with some forest walking, which on the WCT inevitably means mud. Lots of mud. Fortunately, there had been no rain for a couple of days, so the mud wasn't as bad as it can be. The three of us had very light packs, trail runners, and hiking poles, so we were able to hop over and navigate our way through the mud with little effort. Heavily-laden hikers coming the other way took a look at our relatively clean feet and assured us that the mud got much worse. We were offered advice such as "You haven't seen anything yet" and "Hope you brought your gators.. or a life jacket!". While well-meaning, their comments became more fodder for our trail banter, and the theme of inflatable flotation-device gators began.

Tomato and Swifty have extensive hiking resumes, both having done successful Pacific Crest Trail thru-hikes, among many other accomplishments. I had warned them that it was a different breed of hiker on the WCT, but I don't think I could have prepared them for the absurdity we witnessed. 80 lb. packs were commonplace, and we even saw several people with a pack on their front as well as the back. Although we all started heavy in our earlier hiking days, it was unbelievable that people would attempt a trail as rugged as the WCT without any research at all. "At least they're out there" we agreed, and kept our observations to ourselves.

I digress - back to the trail. At Trestle Creek we're rewarded with more beach walking, taking us to our first cable car crossing at Klanawa River. A group of fellows heading South demonstrated how to help each other across, and waited around to give us a hand. Having people on the cable car landing to pull the car across makes it much easier than pulling yourself when you're in the car. The pulleys were also in much better shape than my 2006 trip, so the crossing was fast and fun. A few more inland miles, along with some impressive ladders, took us to Tsusiat Falls for lunch. The tides and storms change this beach annually, and what in 2006 was a large freshwater pool at the base of the falls was now a tidal bay with steep banks. Swifty and I braved the cold water for a quick shower under the falls, while Tomato settled for the mist bath available nearby. The waterfall is astounding to watch, but the strutting alpha-males offered scenery we didn't come to see, so we packed up and headed back up the ladders to the trail.

Moving on through more inland mud, our next stop is to wait for the ferry at Nitnat Narrows. We chat with some fellow hikers here for half an hour until the ferry comes for the short trip across the narrows. On the South side we're offered beer and seafood, but decide to keep trekking. There is quite a crowd there, and we agree we'd rather be hiking. Right after the ferry dock is a swampy area, flooded several years ago by a beaver dam. The boardwalk is in rough shape, but we motor on through to the beach access at Cheewhat River. Some fun beachcombing with a few inland detours around surge channels brings us to Cribs Creek, our campsite for night two.

Cribs Creek is a large, picturesque beach and a popular camping spot. There's probably 40 people already camping there when we arrive, so we cross to the south side of the river which is currently unoccupied. After finding a small spot between the logs in which to cram our three tarptents, we count another 20-30 hikers come from both directions. Every available spot near us is occupied, but once the sun goes down a bit it doesn't feel so crowded. For some reason nobody decides to camp on the gently sloping beach at the far North end, where I camped in '06. Wood is scarce, but we scrounge up enough for a comfortable fire and enjoy an evening of stargazing and conversation. I suggested it would have been nice to have grabbed a few beers from the Nitnat ferry dock, but, alas, hindsight is 20/20.

Day three brings us an overcast morning, but a feature-filled day of hiking is ahead of us. After a beautiful beach walk to Carmanah Point, we head up the steps to explore Carmanah Lighthouse. A few photos and sights keep our interest, but the thought of breakfast at Chez Moniques keeps the visit brief. Soon we're heading down the ladder to the makeshift "restaurant" and its charming hostess, Monique. We all opt for the breakfast plate of eggs, potatoes, bacon (for some) and toast. Fresh cowboy coffee is served while we occupy a table with the best view for miles around. While we're waiting for our breakfasts, (actually second breakfasts, Tomato pointed out) Swifty notices an uninvited guest behind the restaurant. A black bear, muching on the salad bar, has decided to join us. I let one of the cooks know, and he chases it away. Another wildlife sighting is crossed off the rather demanding list given to me by Swifty.

After breakfast, a fantastic beach walk lies ahead. Our second cable car crossing, over Carmanah Creek, goes smoothly and leads us to Bonilla Point. Here we're treated to a large pod of Grey Whales surfacing and spouting not far from shore. We gawk for a while, then eventually have to keep moving. One more off the list. The next obstacle is Walbran Creek, which we're told isn't in flood so is crossable. When we arrive, it looks a bit higher than we feel like crossing so we take a side trail up to the cable car. From here, the trail moves inland to avoid the Adrenaline Creek surge channel, site of numerous injuries and evacuations in previous years. A mix of mud and slippery boardwalks is our price for the previous fun on the beach. When we get to Cullite Creek, we decide to check out the camping area. A short side trail heads down to Cullite Cove, with a few small tent spots crammed into the trees. There was nowhere we could set up three tarptents, and after discussing the option of rigging up a tarp and sleeping out, we opted to get back on the trail and stick to the original plan of Camper Creek.

And we were so glad we did. Camper Creek, while fairly busy, offered a less crowded option of camping on the peninsula reached by a quick river crossing. Tides can be an issue here, so we chose a high spot carefully and proceeded to set up. I had been having trouble getting a good pitch on my new Contrail, so Tomato helped me achieve my first perfect pitch. A small breeze helped us air out our damp gear, and we settled in for another fun night around the campfire. Wood was once again scarce, but Tomato's fire building skills outshone even his tent setup skills. Swifty shared some marshmallows procured at Chez Monique's, and I used the time to quiz my hiking friends about long distance hiking. I learned a lot from them this trip, and the reality of a PCT thru-hike in 2010 started to sink in.

We arose early on our fourth day, eager to explore Owen Point at low tide. A long beach shelf, followed by tidal caves, boulders, and even bigger boulders were the highlights of this day. I think anyone hiking the WCT owes it to themselves to consider this optional, difficult route as part of their itinerary. It is definitely the most rugged and dangerous part of the trail, but offers West Coast scenery at its finest. Much to Swifty's delight we saw a sea otter and a seal, and the list was quite complete. Tomato, an accomplished rock climber, bounced across the boulders and disappeared from sight. Swifty had a bit more trouble with the large boulders, but admirably kept a strong pace and we arrived at Thrasher Cove at lunch time. Our original itinerary had us spending the night at Thrasher, but the campsite is purely functional so we chose to keep going to the end.

Heading inland at Thrasher, the only option, reveals 5km of ladders and hill climbs. A straight line on the map, it's actually a considerable amount of switchbacks and altitude gains. The hiking is fairly easy though, and we get to the ferry with plenty of time. Some overloaded hikers we passed were going to have to rush for the last crossing at 4:30, as the camping options at the ferry beach are very limited. Once over Gordon River we take a short bus ride into Port Renfrew for a hot meal and a cold beer, and I call a surprised Rebecca requesting an early ride home. She's unable to make it, but luckily my mum steps up to the plate and zips out from Sooke to drive us home.

I'm really glad my new friends were able to join me on this trail, and hope they both take back the fondest of memories (and forget the bad ones). We've already begun discussing where we can hike next year, and I know we'll follow through and get together again.

Walking in the Rain

2008-08-27T14:24:00.000-07:00

With next week's West Coast Trail hike looming, I find myself thinking back to soggy shoulder-season hikes I've done in the past. September is a bit of a gamble in this part of the world - it could be warm and sunny, or it could rain heavily the entire time. Lately, the nights have been quite chilly, and in the last week we've had a mix of sun and very heavy rain.

With this in mind, I thought I'd share some things I do differently, or at least more carefully, when I know the weather is going to be rough.

Take a couple of spare pack liners (I like the Glad Forceflex garbage bags) as these inevitably get torn. They're good for sitting on, putting under your mattress, a makeshift parka or tarp, collecting rainwater, all sorts of things.
Lots of nourishing, warm, easy to prepare food. When you're cold and wet, nothing warms you up more than a hot meal.
Label a set of clothes as "must stay dry". I usually make this my sleepwear (longjohns and a tshirt). They stay in a plastic bag until I'm in the tent and have as much mud off me as possible. Even if a bear eats your hiking clothes, wear the abovementioned garbage bag for hiking, and keep these clothes for when you're in your tent.
Take care of your feet. You'll never be able to keep them dry on a trail like the West Coast Trail, but when you get to camp, take off your wet shoes and socks and dry off your feet. Even if you're going to be out in the rain, wear your sandals and let them air out. When you get into your tent, towel them off and change/remove any blister treatment.
Wear a hat. I find a hood limits your field of vision and your hearing, both of which are important on the trail. A hat with a brim will keep water out of your eyes and prevent it from running down your neck.
A small silnylon tarp is a luxury well worth the weight. Those who know me to weigh out the peanuts in my trailmix might be surprised, but having dinner under a tarp with your hiking friends makes the rain much more bearable. If you can get a fire going just outside the tarp you can almost forget the previous 10 hours of mudslogging.
If you know you'll be spending long hours in the tent, some simple entertainment is nice. A book or mp3 player if you're by yourself, or cards, dice, and travel games are always good in a group.
Only take what can get wet. Maybe skip the SLR this time and take a cheap or waterproof camera. No amount of bagging will keep away rainforest humidity, and if you don't take it out to use, what was the point of bringing it?

Vanishing Summer

2008-08-06T06:54:00.001-07:00

Although I got a good amount of hiking in early this year, I've spent a lot of this nice weather working in my back yard on a new deck, patio, and pergola. But don't worry kids, I'll be on the West Coast Trail in less than a month!

Speaking of the WCT, for any of you thinking of tackling it this year, I thought I'd forward this note along:

I have a two-person permit for the West Coast Trail for park entry from Port Renfrew on Saturday August 23rd, 2008. Unfortunately I have broken my ankle and will not be able to make the trip. I am also no longer able to obtain a refund as I am within the 21 day cancellation window. I thought that you might be connected to a network of folks who may be interested in using my reservation as I know they are difficult to come by. My cost was $300 US, but I would consider any reasonable offer. Thank you for your time.

Nick Juhle

734.717.7294

I don't know this person and am not involved in the sale at all. I just know what it's like to be stuck with a reservation you can't use.

Success!

2008-06-23T17:06:00.000-07:00

I got back yesterday evening from my two-day hike of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. I managed to hike the entire length in the short amount of time I had, and hiking solo was an interesting adventure.

I started out at the China Beach trailhead at 7:30 am on Saturday. The weather was cloudy but warm and dry, and the trail was in reasonably good shape. Signs warned of the trail closure due to the bridge out at Ivanhoe Creek, but I knew froma previous visit in March that there was a bypass trail. I actually didn't even need the bypass trail, as the water levels were low enough that a log over the creekbed proved enough. By 9:30 I was at Bear Beach where I stopped for second breakfast. I didn't see anybody at Mystic Beach, and only 2 small groups at Bear. One couple at Bear were turning around and heading home due to their 70lb packs. Ouch!

Not the most technically difficult, but definitely the most arduous section of the trail is between Bear Beach and Chin Beach. Roughly 10km of ups and downs take a toll on your legs, and I was feeling pretty worn out by the time I got to Chin. I stopped and had some lunch, but as it was only 1:30 I decided to press on to Sombrio Beach at km 27. I passed a few hikers from Chin on their way to Sombrio, but otherwise the trail was deserted. Being by myself in bear country, I was a little bit nervous, and did a lot of whistling and peering around corners. My hiking poles did double duty as noisemakers, clacking against rocks, tree trunks, and each other.

When I got to Sombrio I was still in pretty good shape, but my legs were ready to give out. I staggared a few more yards down the beach and plopped on the first level spot I came to. Shortly thereafter, one of the fellows from the site next to me came over to say hi, and invite me back to their site. After I relaxed for a while, I joined Stewart and his friends for an evening of wine, fresh mussels, and conversation. Stewart gave me his number so we could meet up to brew some beer, but I appear to have lost his card. If anyone sees it, let me know! The hospitality of this group was amazing, and I went to sleep well past hiker midnight (10:30) and zonked out immediately.

Sunday morning I woke up feeling pretty good, and not too stiff from my previous day's exertion. I lay in bed for a while, as I "only" had 20km of comparatively easy terrain to make today. As long as I was at Botanical Beach by 5:00, when Rebecca would meet me, I'd be fine. I packed up said goodbye to my new friends, and was on the trail around 9:00. Sombrio River was quite low, so I opted to wade through it rather than trek up to the suspension bridge. The sun was shining, so I wasn't too worried about wet feet. After a bit more beach walking, my spidey-sense was tingling. In a field of grey boulders, I saw one furry black boulder that looked out of place. Sure enough, a small bear was eating something, probably a dead seal. Luckily, the tide was out, so I was able to give him a wide berth. I had a chat with him on the way past, and we came to an understanding. I wouldn't eat his dead seal, and he wouldn't eat me. At one point I looked up and there was a bald eagle, a sea otter, and the bear all within my line of sight. I tried to take a picture of all three, but couldn't get the angle right. Rather than dwell on this, I figured it would be prudent to move past the bear and get on with my day.

The rest of the day proved to be quite uneventful. I kept up a good pace, with just a brief stop at Pyzant Creek for water. At around 2:30 I was nearing Botanical Beach, so I stopped at one of my favorite resting areas at Tom Baird Creek. I made myself a big lunch, and stretched out in the sun with my book for a couple of hours. At 4:30, I packed up and headed to Botanical to meet Rebecca and Shadow. I could tell they both wanted to go down to the beach, so I added another couple of miles to my trek and walked down to Botany Bay with them. After that, we went for dinner in Port Renfrew, then made our way home.

I'm glad I was able to meet my two goals: hiking alone, and completing the trail in two days. As for the former, hiking solo has its benefits, I got to get lost in my own thoughts, and not worry about anyone else's pace or fitness level. I did, however, find I was quite jumpy and nervous about bears, which I'm normally not around other people. As for the timeline, I don't know if I'd want to hike that distance regularly, but it was good to know my body is capeable of it, and I'm proud of my accomplishment. I still enjoyed all the scenery and solitude of the wilderness, but spent it hiking rather than sitting at a campsite. What's next.. maybe the West Coast Trail in three days? We'll see :)

Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, again

2008-06-20T08:29:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow I'm planning to hike some/most/all of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail again. A couple of things make this different than my usual journeys on this trail: I'm trying to do as much of the trail as I can in two days, and I'm going by myself.

To hike the JDF in 2 days is a bit ambitious, and I'm not going to push to the point of carelessness, and will just hike as far and fast as I'm comfortable doing. I know the trail can be run in 8-10 hours, but that's not for me. The trail is 47km, and while normally this isn't an unreasonable distance to cover in two days (I've done 30km days on the Pacific Crest Trail and at Mt Assiniboine), the terrain is very hard on the body, and my knees have been giving me a bit of trouble lately.

So, I'm leaving my itinerary open, and will take it as it comes. Fortunately, there's not much rain the forecast, so that will help. Nothing slows you down more than mud and slippery boardwalks. I also have my base pack weight down to under 9 pounds, which is half the weight I previously tackled this trail with. Couple that with only 2 days' food instead of 3, a decent amount of training, and my stubborness, and I should be able to cover a lot of ground.

I've been wanting to try a solo hike for some time now. My future plans may involve a thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail in 2010, so I want to make sure I'm comfortable with the solitude now. The JDF is a well travelled trail, an hour rarely goes by where you don't see another hiker. I always bring a book on a hike, but this time I'm also going to bring an MP3 player. I don't like to load up on gadgets, but I did really enjoy music now and then on my last hike. And yes, the mp3 player is included in my 9 pound base weight :)

Check back for photos and trip report next week!

Tell It On The Mountain

2008-06-11T14:33:00.000-07:00

For a few years, the hiking community has been teased with the release of Tell It On The Mountain, a documentary/reality video about the Pacific Crest Trail.

The latest trailer is here, and for those familiar with the PCT it will definitely peak your interest!

Trailer - Tell it on the Mountain from TellitontheMountain on Vimeo.

Onion

2008-06-05T07:54:00.000-07:00

One of the characters I met at ADZPCTKO is Garret Christensen, aka The Onion. When I hung out with him at the kick-off, he seemed quite normal (as normal as any of the other long-distance hikers, anyway...) and it wasn't until I got home until I realized just what this gentleman did in his free time.

Described by his sister as funny, and by himself as the "smartest person in the world," Garret is a mild-mannered (but not too humble) superhero disguised as a backpacker. When not hiking or studying economics, he runs. And boy does he run. 80 mile jaunts up Mt. Diablo, 24 hour ultra-marathons, you name it.

"Adventures in Onionism", The Onion's regularly-updated (more than this one) blog is a fun read, peppered with book reviews, political commentary, hiking potpourri, run reports, and random witticisms. I suggest adding it to your RSS feed!

Oh yeah, Garett was also the first person to Yo-Yo the Continental Divide Trail. Roughly 6,000 miles in one season. He mentioned that this 6 month hike was "good conditioning for ultra-marathons." Your mileage may vary.

ADZPCTKO

2008-05-07T07:50:00.000-07:00

Following my Pacific Crest Trail section hike last week, I had the good fortune to attend the Annual Day Zero Pacific Crest Trail Kick Off (ADZPCTKO, 'the kickoff', or just ADZ).

I didn't really have an idea what to expect. Sure, I'd read about the kickoff in trail journals, and Paul (Potential 178) told me how much fun he had at the '07 gathering, but it was still something of an enigma. In thru-hiking circles the kickoff is both praised and opposed to both ends of the spectrum. Proponents laud the camaraderie, education, and nostalgic benefits, while detractors complain of the 'herd' (too many hikers starting at once) and lack of solitude. In the end, the 'hike your own hike' mantra seems to prevail.

So, it's the Thursday before the kickoff weekend as Paul and I hike South into Lake Morena. Already there's so many tents scattered about it looked like an REI truck exploded. Of course, on closer inspection, most of the lightweight shelters wouldn't be found at REI, being a breed currently known only to thru-hikers and well educated backpackers. Silnylon, Tyvek, and even some Cuben Fibre tents prevailed.

We found the registration tent and received our name tags and camp site assignments. After setting up, we went up to the disappointingly provisioned 'Malt Shop' to get a snack. Fortunately, a local entrepreneur had set up his chuck wagon, 'Ray's Bitchen Kitchen', to augment the food supply. Ray had never met a vegetarian before, so I was happy to enlighten him on the ins and outs. I had a 'bitchen' plate of beans and corn with a warm tortilla and "seriously, no meat at all?".

Once we had settled in, I followed Paul around to meet some of his friends from previous hikes. I quickly took a liking to Squatch and Jester, as they shared my immature joy in bathroom humour. Squatch is a famous character on the PCT, being the producer of numerous movies about trail life. He also has an unfeasibly large fanny-pack which provided for hours of entertainment. Near our campsite we met up with a group we had run into back at Warner Springs, where we recycled some trail jokes and stories. Nitro, Tomato, The Onion, Heinz, Swifty, Ducky, Nano, Bearcant and I formed an entourage for the remainder of the weekend, staying up late by the fire and disturbing as many people as possible. This nucleus attracted many visitors, and we were regaled by stories of both the trail and real life.

I should make a side note about trail names here. Hikers come from all walks of life (pun intended) but mostly none of us were ever those cool frat guys with names like "Pinto" and "Flounder". In response, the concept of trail names was invented. The best trail names are given on the trail, by other hikers, usually inspired by an event or character trait. Some trail names stick for life, while others are only for that year's hike. Paul's trail name, 'Potential 178', is one of those names that comes with a fantastic story. Let me explain. No, there's not enough time. Let me summarize. Paul was given a hard time by US Customs last year, where it was deemed he may be a burden on the US economy, or a 'potential 178' in border-guard lingo.

Anyway, back to the kickoff. Besides sitting around in the shade drinking beer, there were other events and happenings. We saw slideshows from previous year's thru-hikers, a screening of one of Squatch's movies, gear contests, auctions, and informative seminars on trail conditions. The highlight of all these events had to be the ones involving trail legend Eric Ryback. Eric is famous in the hiking world for being the first to thru-hike the PCT, among other achievements. He has been detached from the hiking community (in fact, he didn't know there was such a thing), and it was only after some family members of his who hiked the trail last year that he got in touch with the ADZ planners.

The first presentation involving Ryback was a panel of 'old timers' giving their views on the trail from the 70's compared to now. A few of these were trail-hardened octogenarians who enjoyed berating us youngsters and our cel phones and MP3 players. The panel started to slip into a "you damn kids these days" speech, but then it was Eric's turn to talk. He was so positive, and excited about the trail community, that the whole auditorium gained a buzz of electricity. His now-famous comment was "I'm tempted to go and call my wife and tell her I won't be home for 5 months" (or words to that effect). Eric was astounded to discover the sense of community and fellowship among the hikers. He didn't lecture us on how hard he had it, instead he shared his excitement in the new gear and technology available. Not to dismiss the other panel members, some did have interesting comments and it was fascinating to hear about their adventures, but I couldn't help wanting to hear more from Eric Ryback.

Fortunately, there was more. Saturday evening presented us with a slide show and talk from Eric, featuring slides (yes, actual 35mm film positives, no Powerpoint!) from his 1970 hike. Equipped with jeans, a wood framed pack, and no sunglasses, Eric started in a snow-covered Washington and hiked south to the Mexican border. The crowd was very receptive, and nobody soured the mood with questions about the controversy involving his thru-hike (witnesses claim he hitchhiked around some of the areas. We all chose to not care. Hike your own hike.) The day also gave me the opportunity to explore the specialty gear makers' displays, and meet the people behind the gear. I chatted with Henry Shires (Tarptent) and got a preview of his new tent design. I'm ready to order when you are, Henry!

On Sunday, Swifty hiked down to the border (I really wanted to go, but my knee was acting up and I didn't want to do any more damage). Instead, the entourage piled into two cars to drive down to the border and meet her. We stopped for a gallon or two of ice cream before hitting the dusty road to the border fence. The border was an odd mixture of barbed wire, sheet metal, and sponsored placards from insecure Americans. I'm sure the scene of a bunch of dirty hikers posing for photos made the minutemen nervous, but they didn't interfere.

Other memorable times involved cooking burritos for 500. You've never cooked until you've cooked refried beans on a barbecue. The volunteer spirit was in full-force in the kitchen area, and there was never a shortage of volunteers. We also performed interventions, helping overpacked hikers lower their pack weights. The remainder of the time was usually spent hanging out with other hikers, while my evenings were spent with the entourage around the campfire. One evening was spent at 'the cabins' which is an area noisy hikers are encouraged to go to, to avoid disrupting people at the campground who need an early start the next morning. The party at the cabins was a riot, and, after a bit of night hiking, I got to bed at around 4:00am. Not typical hiker bedtime!

On Monday morning the air around the campground was quiet and solemn. The thru-hikers left for the next leg of their trip, and the rest of us packed up for home. It was sad to say goodbye to my new friends, and we promised to keep in touch. Hopefully, a group of them are going to visit me in Victoria late summer and hike the West Coast Trail. I'm already counting down the days!

For more photos check out Mad Monte's and Splash's photo pages.

Pacific Crest Trail section hike (Warner to Morena Southbound)

2008-04-29T14:00:00.000-07:00

For my first backpacking adventure of 2008, I joined my friend Paul (Potential 178) on a section hike of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). For those not familiar with the PCT, it runs through the Western states, from Campo on the Mexican border to Manning Park in Canada. More information can be found on the Pacific Crest Trail As sociation web site.

Paul and I both were able to lower our base pack weights to well under 10 pounds, and were very excited about testing out our new found buoyancy. On April 17 I took a ferry to Vancouver, enjoyed dinner with a friend, then made my way to Paul's apartment. After a bit of last minute gear organizing and food packing, we had a short sleep before heading to the airport the next morning.

Not wanting to risk misdirected baggage (you wouldn't believe how often this happens to me) we opted to pay extra for a direct flight to San Diego. We arrived midday and proceeded to the tin-man statue to wait for two other hikers, and a ride from Pea "Girlscout" Hicks (more on trail names in a future post). After stopping for tacos, Girlscout took us back to his place where he generously has made space and amenities available to hikers. The plan was for Girlscout to drive some people to Campo in the morning, then come back and take Paul and I to Warner Springs in the afternoon. Unfortunately, we had a severe case of trail fever and couldn't wait, so we called up a cab. A very expensive cab. The driver and his co-pilot had no idea where they were going, and ended up going 20 miles out of the way. By this time it was nearly midnight, we were hungry and grumpy, and didn't argue the price. Much to Paul's dismay, I even gave them a small tip.

The next hiccup was on checking in to Warner Springs Ranch. The lady at the counter insisted that as it was after midnight on a Thursday, she had to charge us weekend rates. This obviously made no sense, but we didn't have much choice so she left a note to the manager to discuss it with us in the morning. Sure enough, as we're walking across the road to find breakfast, Maureen, the manager, comes running out to apologize for the error. Our spirits are lifted, and we enjoy a great breakfast at the golf course club house. Overall, I'm very impressed with Warner Springs, all of the staff went out of their way to make sure we enjoyed our stay, even the night-shift security guard was chatty and curious about our hike. Next time I definitely want to stay longer to enjoy all the serves the ranch has to offer.

Okay, so we're finally on the trail! Our destination for the day was a short 9 miles to Barrel Springs. Maureen had described a horse trail we could use to get to the PCT and avoid some road walking, which was a nice start to the day. Once on the PCT we followed Cañada Verde Creek, gracefully lined with Oak trees, until emerging into chapparel covered hills and ranges. One of the famous landmarks on the PCT is Eagle Rock, an appropriately named mass of rocks that no hiker wielding a camera will ever bypass. Paul commented that it didn't look remarkably like an Eagle, but then we proceeded to the correct side and were properly impressed. We stopped here for a snack and plenty of photos. The land here is quite dry, but there are some seasonal creeks. We stop off at San Ysidro Creek to dip our feet, then hike the last few miles to Barrel Springs.

Setting up camp at Barrel Springs, we meet a few thru-hikers, including the infamous Warner Springs Monty. Monty is a character who helps maintain the water pipe at Barrel, among many other duties. He also is very involved in the annual kickoff party, ADZPCTKO (report to follow), and took the opportunity to drum up our interest in helping to prepare food at the kickoff. Our night at Barrel was otherwise uneventful, and we were serenaded to sleep by a chorus of frogs, crickets, and owls. And crazy drunk redneck women screaming at their cars at 3:00am. In the morning, I briefly chatted with a couple of turkey hunters heading up into the woods to catch something to put in their sandwiches.

From Barrel Springs we proceeded up into the hills, past Billy Goat's Cave, (Billy Goat is a well-known hiker who, rumour has it, was born in this cave. Or maybe he just took shelter here on a particularly hot day. Trail gossip is great.) The trail in this area wasn't overly spectacular, but still nice to be out and about. Small flowers attracted butterflies, and small prickly vegetation attracted my buttocks. Water promises to be scarce, so we tanked up with 3 litres of Barrel's finest. Midday we arrived at the Third Gate Water Cache, an oasis of bottled water for thirsty hikers. As the day wasn't too hot, and we still had a bit of water from Barrel, we just took a splash each. The cache is resupplied by trail angels (and hikers with spare time) via a 1 mile spur trail down to the road. We contemplated camping here and playing Gungadin, but it was still early in the day so instead opted for more miles. The databook promised a "sandy wash" ahead, so we saddled up and hit the trail again. The winds started to pick up, and by the time we got to the sandy wash, it was evident we'd need to find a sheltered spot to set up camp. The wash had a lot of flat ground to choose from, so we spent half an hour walking around, eventually settling on nice spots protected by shrubberies. The wind brought cooler evening temperatures, so it was early to bed to read, justifying the extra weight of the book I brought along (The Salmon of Doubt by Douglas Adams).

The next landmark on the trail was Scissors Crossing, where the trail intersects a couple of highways. We must have been hungry when we got to the road crossing, as we took a wrong turn and headed a mile up the highway in the wrong direction. After a bit of frustration, we narrowly avoided fisticuffs by finding the correct trail 10 feet to the right of where we turned left. Shortly after the road crossing we found a small patch of shade we shared with a couple of thru-hikers and prepared some lunch. Spirits lifted, we walked another mile to the next water cache. The Scissors water cache is right by the road, so we felt a little better about filling up our supply as nobody had to hike the water in. A gaggle of section and thru hikers was gathered in the limited shade, and we enjoyed a few trail stories and a brief rest. A mile of flat, treeless land lead us to the looming hills ahead. We were told there wasn't too many flat spots after we crested the first batch of hills, so we agreed to look for a camp spot once we had made a few miles into the hills. We passed quite a few nice spots, but really weren't ready to make camp, so kept on hiking until just before the crest. A little worried that we had passed all the good spots, we agreed to stop at the next reasonable area. It turned out to be a very nice spot with a view of the valley below, and the trail from the previous day's hiking back into the hills.

Although we each had a bit of trail damage to our feet, we woke up in otherwise good spirits and health, eager for a solid day of hiking. Plenty of ups and downs today, punctuated by flowering cactus, panoramic views, and wind. Our first rest was at the Rodriguez Spur fire tank, the biggest bucket of water around. Just below the fire tank was a spigot where we could fill up with water and rest in the shade. We heard a voice from up at the tank, and upon investigation met Eric, one of the only two people to yo-yo (hike the trail both directions in one year) the PCT. A humble and friendly chap, Eric remembered Potential from the trail last year and was happy to answer our gear-related questions I'm sure he'd been asked countless times before. With a base pack weight of under 5 pounds, Eric's spartan gear list made our previously ultralight packs fall into the shameful category of just plain lightweight. From the fire tank, we almost took another wrong turn up the spur road, but quickly realized there were no footprints or other clues of the trail. A gate with a PCT sticker on it revealed the correct path, and we quickly moved on. Just around the corner we spotted a hiker perched in a field of yellow flowers who was excited to hear that he was just a few hundred feet from the fire tank. Shortly thereafter we started up a steep hill climb where we ran into Ridgewalker and Lynn, the other hikers who shared Girlscout's ride from the airport with us. Once reaching the summit, we hunkered down in a nice shady spot for a long lunch and rest. Rejuvenated, we decided to push on to the Sunrise Trailhead, which offered clean outhouses with a nice.. umm "backdraft." From Sunrise we kept on going, eventually hitting Kwaaymii Point, a fantastic stretch of abandoned road perched on the edge of a massive cliff face. Popular for hang gliding, the rock-strewn ledge had several memorials to fallen hang gliding enthusiasts. From Kwaaymii, we proceeded to the Pioneer Mail trailhead, a picnic area with outhouses and a water tank. The water tank was polluted with dead rats, but luckily a local Samaritan had provided jugs of fresh water for the hikers, which we shared with the 15 or so others camped in the picnic area. Dusk arrived quickly, so we tucked into bed shortly after Paul tried to warn some night-hikers about the dangerous water. They stormed past, upset that Paul's flashlight was ruining their night vision.

After a cold night at Pioneer Mail, we quickly packed up camp in eager anticipation of our first town stop at Mt. Laguna. The miles flew by, and before we knew it we could see the radar station that marked the outskirts of Mt. Laguna. A little bit of road walking, and the glowing beacon of the Mt. Laguna Lodge general store. The store is a hiker's paradise, offering such delicacies as microwave burritos, ice cream sandwiches, beer, and plenty of packaged food for a resupply. The brothers who run it are helpful and very hiker friendly, always happy to sit on the deck and hear some trail news. The deck at Laguna is a part of hiker lore, and almost every hiker has a story that starts with "so we were sitting on the deck at Laguna..." We booked a cabin for the night, loaded up on burritos, and plunked down for about 4 hours on the deck with some other hikers. Russ, a former gold miner, regaled us with tales of stripping the land bare. Pheeew, after a few hours of unsuccessful hitchhiking in the sun, demonstrated gravity's awesome power by falling off the deck and breaking her ankle in two places. (I'm told she's had it splinted and is resuming her thru-hike. Look forward to her book!). This prompted a visit from the local emergency services crew, who were very helpful and professional. Later on, a group of hikers showed up who will end up playing a major roll in my enjoyment of the kickoff, and hopefully will be hiking with me on the West Coast Trail this Fall. The evening was punctuated with some horrible television and good beer in our cabin.

Although we enjoyed our 20 miler the previous day, we were in no rush to get to the end of our hike, so we broke up the trip to Morena by stopping at Cibbets Flat campground. Cibbets was a picturesque spot by a creek, with clean outhouses and private camp spots. As it is about half a mile off the trail, we didn't see any other hikers for the night. In the morning, we had our last on-trail breakfast and began the final leg of our journey.

On the way to Lake Morena and the kickoff, we stopped at Boulder Oaks campground where some trail angels were handing out Gatorade and sandwiches. We were fine for supplies, but couldn't pass up an ice cold drink. The last of our food was consumed under the shade of an oak tree, then the lure of the Lake Morena Malt Shop's famous fries beckoned us onwards. The miles went quickly, interrupted only by the occasional rattlesnake. When we arrived at Lake Morena, there must have already been 100 tents set up for the kickoff party, even though it didn't begin until the next day. We found our assigned spots and set up camp, then headed up to the store. To our bitter disappointment, the shopkeep informed us that he wasn't going to open up the deli for another month, thereby denying over 500 ADZ attendees and countless more hikers the chance of a cold milkshake or tasty french fries. The store had a pathetic selection of food, mostly just potato chips and beef jerky. Fortunately, it had beer and ice cream sandwiches, so all was not lost. Fortified with San Diego's Red Trolley Ale, we headed back to the campground to settle in for 4 days of fun at the ADZPCTKO, which I will review in a few days.

In which the remainder of my overtime pay gets spent

2008-04-06T09:18:00.000-07:00

Although I'd love to take an SLR with a range of lenses, flash, filters, and tripod, it wouldn't really work with my style of hiking. Aside from the weight and bulk, if I have to spend 10 minutes setting up a photo, I probably won't bother to stop. On the other hand, if I have a camera in my pocket ready to go, I'll probably end up with a decent amount of good quality photos.

With the decision made to bring a small and portable, rather than large professional quality camera, there's still a number of other options - but the largest one is probably film vs. digital.
Film cameras, although becoming obsolete for anyone other than a traditionalist or specialist, do offer some benefits over digital. Weight, price, and durability to name three. A moderate quality, feature sparse film camera can be had for under $50, weighs a couple of ounces, and can survive most punishment you throw at it. A lot of them don't need batteries unless you want to use the flash, offering further weight savings (not to mention 6 months on a thru-hike without having to recharge). On the downside, you have to buy film, carry plenty of it, and pay to have it developed.

Digital cameras are generally heavier than film cameras, there's no getting around that. Up until now, I usually carried a Kodak EasyShare DX4900, at nearly 10 oz. including battery, memory card, and wrist strap. Although I've had excellent results, often comparable to pictures taken with much higher end cameras, I had to keep it in a padded case, waterproof bag, and be extremely careful around sand and wet areas. It is also fairly bulky, and feels uncomfortable in a pocket. The advantages of a digital camera, including holding hundreds of photos, still made it worth it to me over a film camera.

Last week, I decided it was time to replace the aging Kodak with something more suited to the outdoors. I did quite a lot of research online, and narrowed it down to either the Olympus Stylus 850 SW or the Pentax Optio W30. Both cameras came in at roughly the same price, and had a pretty similar feature set. Both are water and dust proof, lightweight (around 5 oz inclusive), and small enough to fit in a pocket.

I went into my local camera store and asked the clerk to help me narrow down my selection to one camera. He suggested that the Olympus had one major advantage: it was shock proof as well as waterproof. Knowing how rough I can be on gear in the outdoors, this sounded like a great feature. I paid the man, came home, and crossed another 5 oz. off my gear list!
In two weeks I head off for a section hike of the Pacific Crest Trail, so I'll be sure to post some photos and a review of the camera when I return.

Spring Gear Splurge

2008-03-13T20:30:00.000-07:00

Last year, I finished the season with a respectable base weight of around 16 pounds. While discussing our upcoming Pacific Crest Trail section hike, I proudly mentioned this to Paul. "Wow," he said, "that's a pretty heavy base weight." Ouch, there goes my ego!
I've recently worked a lot of overtime, so I have a bit of extra spending money. Well, I did, until 15 minutes after Paul's comment. I've ordered a new pack (Mountain Laurel Super Prophet), water bladder (Platypus Big Zip 1.8L), mattress (Gossamer Gear NightLight), Wind Jacket (GoLite Ether), and a few other bits & pieces. I've also tweaked some of my existing gear, including streamlining my first aid kit, repackaging hygiene items, and eliminating items unnecessary for the specific locale.

The verdict? My base weight is under 10 pounds! I've posted a spreadsheet, please feel free to take a look and offer any suggestions. I plan to review all of the new gear, and detail the optimization steps to get to this weight.

Crunch time

2008-03-11T18:02:00.000-07:00

In an effort to compensate for a winter of sloth-like activity, I've started an exercise schedule to help me get back into shape. Using a Google Apps spreadsheet, I'll keep track of my daily mileage and fitness routine. It's a bit geeky trying to use a spreadsheet to get in shape, but I find having a visual aid helps me stay on track. Shadow, my training partner, is really enjoying this new fitness routine as well. She's getting at least 6 or 7 kilometers of walking/hiking/running a day, rain or shine. She doesn't much care for the spreadsheet though.

The other geeky thing I've added to my fitness routine is my GPS. Not exactly a necessary item, but I really like knowing how far I've hiked, what my average speed was, as well as learning to use the darned thing. I don't know if it will join me on any backpacking adventures, but at 5 oz it isn't too unreasonable to bring on some trips. If there's any interest, I'll write up a review and usage guide for it.

Out of Hibernation

2008-03-09T14:23:00.000-07:00

I'd like to start by apologizing for my shockingly long absence from posting. I could give you the usual excuses about being busy and all that, but really it's because the dog ate my homework.
Anyhow, spring is here on the West Coast, and my desire to get back out on the trails is in full bloom.

So far I have two hikes confirmed to tell you about. First, I'll be joining my friend Paul (Potential 178) on a week-long Pacific Crest Trail adventure in late April. We'll be flying down to San Diego, hiking a section of the trail southbound, and finishing up in time to participate in the ADZPCTKO. Paul has hiked the southern section of the PCT twice now, so I look forward to learning from his experience.

My second confirmed hike will also be on the PCT, but this time with my brother, Nathan. In August, we'll be tackling a section in Southern Oregon, around the Crater Lake area. I've vacationed in Crater Lake, but I'm very excited about getting onto the trails in the surrounding area.

I really need to get in shape quickly, as it's only 6 weeks until I'm on the trail. I have a layer of winter fat to shed, some gear to update, food to prepare, and itineraries to plan. I'll keep you up to date with my progress!

Trip Report: Yoho National Park

2007-08-20T12:35:00.000-07:00

Our search for the sun was successful! On Wednesday morning, Ian and I got on the 9:00am ferry and headed towards the mountains. Because this was a last-minute adventure, we decided to go into familiar territory and headed for Yoho National Park. After a motel stop in Revelstoke, we proceeded early on Thursday morning to the Yoho Information Centre to purchase our park permit and wilderness passes. We asked about some of the backcountry hiking which allowed for "random camping" (no assigned campsites) but were advised that the best hiking was in the Yoho Valley. We chose an itinerary based on this advice, and opted for 3 nights: one night each at Twin Falls, Little Yoho River, and Yoho Lake.

Plans were settled, and we eagerly set off for the short drive up Yoho Valley Road towards Takakkaw Falls. Around 11:00 am, we quickly grabbed our packs and headed up the Yoho River trail. It only took about 5 minutes to leave the tourist-filled parking lot behind, and soon we were in the relative solitude of the Yoho Valley.

The hike to Twin Falls is about 8km on well-marked trails. Although this is some of the most accessible, beautiful hiking around, we only saw a couple of day hikers and even fewer backpackers. After an hour, roughly halfway along the Yoho River trail, we passed Laughing Falls which I assume got its name from when I tripped over a root and Ian laughed at me. Another hour later and we were at the Twin Falls campground. No, we didn't both trip over here: this one is actually named for the waterfall that divides into two distinct plumes falling 180 meters (591 feet). We set up camp and had lunch, then put on the daypack and headed up towards the Yoho Glacier.

The trail up to the Glacier begins in a pine forest, but soon opens on an expansive and barren valley and the Yoho River. Panoramic views of the Waputik Icefield, Mt Balfour, Mt Gordon, and Yoho Peak prevail. Hiking up the rock strewn pathway, the trail gets steeper and then scrambled up some rocks beside multiple waterfalls. We explored the waterfalls for a while, scrambling about on the rocks and looking for a safe place to safely cross a small branch of the river to continue on the trail. As it was getting late in the afternoon, the river was fairly wide, and we didn't feel comfortable with jumping the distance and risking a twisted ankle. After a bit more exploring, we started back towards camp. A father and son went by, in a rush to avoid what they predicted was an impending storm. They mentioned that it was just a "hop" across the river, but we still opted for safety and continued back to camp. The "storm" never materialized, so we spent the rest of the evening relaxing by the river with a book and plenty to eat.

Day two was to take us to the Little Yoho campsite. Heading out of camp, the trail takes you to the base of Twin Falls for some fantastic views, then punishes you for them by heading straight up to the top of the Falls. Well, not quite straight -- there's plenty of switchbacks. Once at the top of the Falls we stopped for lunch and took many photographs of the valley down below. Thankfully, the ruggedness of this trail keeps the majority of tourists away, so the steep cliffs are accessible without the usual blight of guard rails, fences, and warning signs. Common sense keeps you at a reasonable distance, while allowing for an unimpeded view for hundreds of miles.

Once we crossed over the top of Twin Falls, the trail continued to climb for a bit to the top of Whaleback (7250 ft.) A few more photos, and we headed down the much-steeper switchbacks towards the Little Yoho River. We both agreed that coming up from this direction would have been much harder. About 7km from where we started, we arrived at a junction and headed up the Little Yoho River trail. This 5km trail went through a mostly forested area with beautiful meadows and stream crossings until arriving at the Little Yoho campground. We set up camp and had lunch, then freshened up in the ice-cold river.

I was still full of energy at this point, so I decided to head up the 4km trail to Kiwetinok Pass. Ian was feeling his age and opted to stay at camp and guard the coffee. I grabbed some water and a snack then headed up the trail. After about 10 minutes I arrived at an unmarked 3-way junction. David, a gentleman we had met at the previous campsite, had been exploring the area and said the right-hand fork looked like the one to the pass, so off I went. A couple of easy river crossings were required, then playtime was over. The trail went straight up, and then got steeper. I was in full spirits, and practically jogged up the next few kilometers. After one false summit, I crested a second ridge and was rewarded with a small, deep-blue lake of stunning clarity. I took a short break and splashed about in the frigid water, then sprinted up the final section of trail to the top of the pass. Absolutely stunning views in all directions took my breath away, and I cursed myself for forgetting my camera. Luckily David came to the rescue and sent me some great photos, including the one at the top of this paragraph. He also advised me that the

I eventually tore myself away from the top of the world, and bounced down the trail past a few other hikers, practically beaming with contentment. When I got back to camp, I tried not to gush too much about the trail to Ian as I knew he had a hard time saying no to the hike. He made the right choice though, and didn't take a risk that could have made the rest of the trip less enjoyable.

Saturday morning, we awoke to another clear day, and started the trek towards Yoho Lake. After a few kilometers in the forest, we reached the junction to the Iceline Trail. This popular trail follows a ridge just below the Emerald Glacier, and winds through a boulder-strewn landscape replete with small lakes, ice patches, and creeks. Views of Takakkaw Falls and the Daly Glacier proved irresistible to our cameras. We passed dozens of dayhikers equally dazzled by the sights, exhausted after their climb from the valley below. After about 6km on the Iceline Trail, we turned back into the trees toward Yoho Lake.

Emerging into the campground and picnic area at Yoho Lake was a little surreal. A very popular dayhiking spot, the lake front was filled with screaming children, dogs, and guided tour groups. I knew they had all made a long, steep hike to get there, so I didn't begrudge them for intruding on my solitude. We scouted out the available campsites, and found one by the lake with a couple just packing up ready to leave. Rather than hover over them, we retreated back to the main beach area to relax and put our feet up. When the couple still hadn't left after an hour, we settled for a spot in the trees. The lakefront spot probably was probably too close to the water anyway.

After setting up camp, we started to head towards Yoho Pass and Emerald Lake. Once over the pass it was 4km straight down to Emerald Lake, and we were a bit hesitant to hike that far down and end our day with a long uphill hike. I felt suddenly very clammy and sweaty, and really wanted to go back to Yoho Lake for a swim. We abandoned our hike and headed back to the campsite, which was now deserted. I took the opportunity to don the special swimsuit given to me at birth, and jumped in the glacier-fed lake. The water was a bit warmer than the rivers at the other campsites, and I managed to cleanse myself without risking hypothermia.

After my swim, we noticed black thunderheads racing towards us over Wapta Mountain. The air thickened, then shook with thunder. We quickly strung up our small siltarp and had dinner under the shelter while the heavens opened up for an hour-long deluge. Goretex laden campers hurried in from their various explorations and sought the shelter of their tents. It seems we were the only ones who have discovered the 4 oz. siltarp. I wonder if my sudden need to abandon our hike was my body's spidey-sense tingling and detecting the coming storm long before my eyes did? Maybe I'll get a job as a meteorologist. Or a superhero. Look, up in the sky! It's a bird! It's a plane! No, it's a Weatherman!

I digress. The storm passed and everyone emerged from the nylon cocoons. The rest of the evening was spent reading, relaxing, and chatting with our new friends Barry and oh-I'm-so-bad-with-names. If you're reading this, please forgive my ignorance, you know what we all smoke out here in BC. And mom, I know you read my blog, I'm just kidding. (Edit: Barry and Jennifer sent me an email too!)

Sunday morning we awoke early and quickly packed up camp. It was a short 4km hike back to the car, and we knew we could make the 9:00pm ferry if we didn't dawdle. Just as we put our packs on it started to drizzle. Hiking in the rain is fine, but I'm glad we didn't have to pack up in it. 45 minutes later we were in the car, and headed into Field to have breakfast at the Truffle Pigs Cafe. With casual service, excellent coffee, and a small but tasty menu, Truffle Pigs is an adventure in itself. Allow for an hour or so as it's usually busy, but there's plenty of knickknacks and distractions to pass the time.

The drive home was long and uneventful, an although we got to the ferry terminal at 6:45, there was a two-sailing wait so we were on the 9:00 sailing anyway. The buffet made the crossing bearable, and shortly before midnight I was home to a warm shower and soft bed.

Change of plans

2007-08-14T13:40:00.001-07:00

The weather reports for the West Coast Trail are looking pretty dire for the next week. Essentially, "rain, heavy at times". Although I have no problem with a damp hike, I'm not eager to spend 5 days in driving coastal rain. I've done the WCT before, so have nothing to prove.

On that note, I'll be heading to the mainland on the 9:00am ferry tomorrow in search of blue skies! We're going to decide where we're going en route, but so far it looks like it'll be somewhere in the Rockies, probably Yoho National Park.

See you in a week!

5-day Menu

2007-08-13T08:52:00.000-07:00

As promised, here is my menu for my 5-day West Coast Trail hike. As we don't have permits reserved, we're not entirely sure of what time or day we'll be starting. I'll have a few extra meals in the car in case we have to camp at the trailhead while waiting for our permit. This plan assumes we arrive at the trailhead at noon, get our permit at 1:00, enjoy the hour-long mandatory slideshow, then hit the trail around 2:00pm. I have alternate itineraries planned as well.

Wed, Aug 15: hike 17km to Tsocowis (km17)
snacks: Home Made Energy Bar (HMEB), 2 tortillas + Peanut Butter & Jam (PB&J)
dinner: corn pasta with asiago tomato sauce, mini chocolate bar, decaf tea

Thu, Aug 16: hike 25km to Cribs (km42)
breakfast: meusli, fruit bar, coffee, juice
lunch: greek tortilla
snacks: HMEB, 4 cookies
dinner: Ez Ed's burritos, mini chocolate bar, decaf tea

Fri, Aug 17: hike 14km to Logan Creek (km56)
breakfast: oatmeal, fruit bar, coffee, juice
lunch: hummus and crackers
snacks: HMEB, 2 tortillas + pb&j
dinner: smoked salmon corn pasta, mini chocolate bar, decaf tea

Sat, Aug 18: hike 14km to Thrasher (km70)
breakfast: meusli, fruit bar, coffee, juice
lunch: mashed potatoes & gravy
snacks: HMEB, crackers & cheese
dinner: curried vegetables & rice, , mini chocolate bar, decaf tea

Sun, Aug 19: hike 6km OUT (km75)
breakfast: oatmeal
lunch: stuffing
snacks: granola bar, cheese coins

Food weight is around 2 pounds per day. Although I weigh and keep track of everything, I don't stress about the weight of good-quality, nutritious food. Within reason, the positive energy gained from this food negates the extra pack weight. Often the heavier meals will also be the quickest to spoil, so I will eat those first.

Preparing Food

2007-08-09T07:36:00.000-07:00

A friend of mine is heading up to hike the Cape Scott Trail this month, and she recently called me to get some ideas for meals. Good timing, as I'm up to my eyeballs in preparing food for next week's West Coast Trail hike.

I have a few goals in mind when I start preparing a meal list: weight, nutritional value, taste, and shelf life. I like to make a lot of my meals from scratch, using recipes from Lipsmackin' Backpackin, the Web, or my imagination. I know when I make the meals myself that they will be healthy, satisfying, and chemical-free. Unfortunately, sometimes that's just not what I crave on the trail, so I will augment my menu with a few commercial freeze dried meals, energy bars, and snacks. Currently about 75% of my food is homemade.

So, the first step is to calculate how many days and nights you plan to be on the trail, and from there figure out how many of each meal you will need. For this upcoming trip, I have determined that I will need 5 breakfasts, 5 snacks, 6 lunches, 6 bags of trailmix (gorp), and 5 dinners. We're planning to spend 4 nights on the trail, but weather and timing means 5 nights is just as likely. Normally I would bring an extra emergency meal, but instead I will take a bit of cash and perhaps enjoy a meal at Chez Monique's (photo), or some fresh crab or salmon at the Nitnat ferry.

Once quantities are calculated, I will grab a pad of paper and make a chart with the headings of breakfast, snacks, lunch, gorp, and dinner. Under each heading I will create a numbered line up to the quantity of each meal needed (ie, 5 lines for breakfast). I will then proceed to populate the chart with meals as I prepare or buy them.

The next step for me is to go through all the meals and make a shopping list for ingredients. This usually requires visiting a health food store, grocery store, and outfitter. Then, I will prepare all of the ingredients that require dehydrating, and load up my dehydrator. This often takes a couple of days so I try to start a few weeks in advance. While dehydrating, I will start preparing the meals that don't require dehydrated ingredients, but may require dehydrating once prepared. Between stages, I store all dried ingredients in the freezer to maximize shelf life and make them easier to chop in the blender.

The next few days are spent baking, mixing, and generally making a mess of the kitchen. Eventually, I will have a bunch of Ziploc bags full of tasty meals. Each bag gets a masking tape label with the meal name, preparation instructions, and another label with any ingredients I need to add before I leave, such as cheese. If a meal is in multiple bags I will label them with "1 of 3","2 of 3" etc. Once each meal is completed, I will put a checkmark beside it on my chart.

A few days before my hike, most meals should be checked off the list, and any prepackaged meals added to fill in any blanks. When buying prepackaged meals, I look for those with the least amount of chemicals, and make sure they don't require long simmering times or the addition of special ingredients. A paper pouch is also nice as it can be burned in a camp fire. For my Ziploc meals, I will bring the tempty bags home, wash them, and use them again.

Now it's time to load up the pack. Typically I've always put a day's worth of food in one large Ziploc, and label the bag "Monday" or "Day 1", for example. For next week's West Coast Trail trip, I am going to try a slightly different system. As we don't know what time or day we will be starting (we don't have a permit reserved) I am just going to load all the breakfasts in one bag, lunches in another, and so on. This way, if we start early or late I can quickly add or remove items and leave them in the car. Another potential benefit of this method is I can have some choice in meals each day and not force myself to eat something I'm not craving that particular day. It will also let me choose meals according to the weather and schedule: a hot breakfast on a cold day, or cold cereal on a morning we're racing to catch a low tide. Meals with longer preparation times can be used on days we decide to stop early.

In my next post, I will share my specific meal plan, along with weights and approximate nutritional information.

Book Review: Pacific Crest Trail Hiker's Handbook

2007-08-06T15:46:00.000-07:00

Full Title: Pacific Crest Trail Hiker's Handbook: Innovative Techniques and Trail Tested Instruction for the Long Distance Hiker
Author: Ray Jardine

If you've been seriously into backpacking for any length of time, the name Ray Jardine will be as common as Martha is to homemakers. Not content to rest on his laurels after changing the face of rock climbing, Jardine set his sights on backpacking - or, more specifically, long distance hiking.

Until the publication of the Hiker's Handbook, the rules of backpacking were simple: sturdy boots, bombproof backpack, waterproof clothing, and equipment to overcome any obstacle nature could provide. Ray Jardine blew all these rules out of the water, and offered up a new set of guidelines that took the backpacking community by storm.

The Hiker's Handbook has probably stirred up more emotion among backpackers than any other publication. Reading reviews, you will find descriptions ranging from genius to ignorance, insightfulness to arrogance. One thing is sure though, any book that can get a rise out of so many people must be worth reading!

The version available in my library is from 1998, so I opened my mind to the state of the industry at that point, ignored the reviews and descriptions I had previously read, and sat down to read the Handbook from cover to cover. The first thing I realized is this is definitely not just a Pacific Crest Trail Handbook, but a book that can be applied to all aspects of backpacking. Even a weekend warrior can use much of the advice offered.

Part One deals with Planning and Preparations, including goals, training, equipment, and food. This is the technical part of the manual, and immediately begins to dissolve any preconceived notions you may have about gear. Industry advertising and magazines are spared no punches, and every bit of planning a trip is covered from head to toe.

Part Two discusses The Journey, and how to survive the myriad of obstacles the trail will throw in your way. Sun to snow, ticks to cougars, each section is well thought out and discussed from a technical and philosophical standpoint.

Parts Three and Four are more specific to the PCT, and discuss itineraries, resupplying, and other trail-related issues.

The final chapters of the book wax a bit more poetic, and allow a window into the author's political views and feelings. Advanced techniques are discusses, as is the potential problem of re-entry after an extended stay in the wilds.

I think any backpacker could learn from reading this book. You don't need to agree with everything Jardine talks about - in fact, there's nothing wrong with adamantly disagreeing with some of his philosophies. I found the most important aspect of this read was that it got me emotional, passionate, and excited about backpacking. My complaints about the Handbook aren't to do with the ideas and criticisms, even if I don't agree with them, but only that Jardine insists on repeating some of his more controversial ideas to the point they seem like a joke. Ever chapter mentions umbrellas and corn pasta. Both might be amazing ideas, but I had enough of them by chapter 3. That, and a few unnecessary discussions about religion, politics, and ethics aside, I can definitely recommend this book to everyone.

In my next few posts I will discuss some of the specific ideas presented in the Hikers Handbook, and how they have influenced my hiking. Specifically, I will be taking some of this newfound advice (and my new tarptent!) with me on the West Coast Trail in a little over a week.

Henry Shires Tarptent

2007-07-26T08:14:00.000-07:00

I got my new Henry Shires Tarptent in the mail yesterday. I will write a field report once I test it out, but for now here's a preview.

Based on conversations with Tarptent owners on the TLB Forums I decided to go with the Double Rainbow. I wanted a 2-person, lightweight shelter that could be set up with minimal amount of staking. The Double Rainbow fits the bill perfectly, as it is free-standing (with the use of two trekking poles) or can be staked out for more versatility.

The included instructions were a little bit confusing to start with, but in the end the setup was fast and straight forward. One long shock-corded pole is threaded through a sleeve, and inserted into a grommet at each end. The poles then sit on top of the extended trekking poles that lie horizontally on the ground, and are secured in place by velcro tabs. Four cords are then attached to the ends of the poles to secure the floor, completing the setup. In ideal conditions this should only take 2 or 3 minutes, but I can see needing two people and a bit of fiddling in windy/rainy conditions.

I was expecting to feel more exposed inside, considering this is a "tarp tent" rather than a tent, but the name is deceiving. The entire exterior can be pulled down and secured, resulting in a seemingly bombproof enclosure, but with a quick reconfigure can be ventilated, opened up to create "beaks" or vestibules, and an array of other configurations to suit the terrain and conditions.

Of course, the best part about the Double Rainbow is the weight. 2.5 pounds for a two-man shelter is fantastic! My current tent, the MEC Merganser, with groundsheet, comes closer to 8 pounds, so this is a significant reduction. This means my hiking partner and I can each lower our pack weights by nearly 3 pounds.

My next trip is the West Coast Trail in August, and I'm a bit apprehensive of taking the Tarptent into such wet, rugged conditions on its first outing. I had hoped to get it last weekend when I did a one-nighter on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail with my brother, but unfortunately Canada Customs decided they needed 9 days (and $11.27) to determine that the tent wasn't made from cocaine. Perhaps some backyard camping with the sprinkler on will serve as a test. Stay tuned for updates!

Lightweight Tip of the Week: Condiment Packets

2007-07-16T09:57:00.000-07:00

An article at Ultra Fine Backpacking describes a unique use for drinking straws to create single-serving size packages for items such as salt, tooth powder, spices, etc. I'm going to try this on my next trip, I will post photos and a review when I get back.

JDF Marine Trail Part II

2007-07-09T09:15:00.000-07:00

This Sunday Ian and I hiked the section of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail that we didn't complete on our annual May hike. We started at Sombrio beach at 10:00am and hiked roughly 20km to Botanical Beach, arriving around 4:00.

Although an anjoyable hike, this section definately pales in comparison to the rest of the trail. Once you're past Sombrio, the hiking is predominantly away from the beach, and follows a muddy path through clearcuts and spindly second- and third-growth forests. Campy signage spin a tale about the benefits of modern logging practices, while a barren, ugly landscape reveals the truth. Even the crew responsible for trail maintenance has forsaken this area, and the trail is choked with Salal and other dense growth. Mud bogs, although dryer than in May, get deeper and wider every year, with no attempts at drainage, diverters, or boardwalks. As evidenced in the picture above, damaged areas are left for hikers to navigate around, further destroying the area. In one area, so many people mistook an unsigned turn that a side trail was almost as well travelled as the main trail. On the plus side, this wrong turn took us down to a previously unknown beach for lunch. A bit of scouting revealed the correct trail hiding behind a tree and some trail debris.

About 8 miles from Botanical Beach the scenery improves somewhat, with a slightly older second-growth forest and a trail replete with boardwalks for the benefit of day-hikers venturing forth from their SUVs. Those wishing to escape the forest doldrum can hike much of the distance on an incredible sea shelf, with frequent wildlife sightings (we saw several bears having a mussel buffet), tidal pools, huge crashing waves, and plenty of stunning vistas.

Closer-still to Botanical there are several secluded pebble beaches ideal for a final rest before the climb up to the parking lot. The hike was followed by a tasty dinner at Mulligans in Sooke, which offers a surprisingly diverse menu and affordable microbrews on tap.

Twig Stove

2007-07-03T10:11:00.000-07:00

In my continuing quest to lighten my load, I recently came across an article describing how to make a twig stove out of a coffee can. This weekend I followed the plans (using a tomato can instead of a coffee can, as I'm a whole-bean snob) and took it on a day hike to test out by cooking some soup for lunch.

The construction was relatively simple, taking approximately 10 to 15 minutes. I added a couple of extra steps such as filing the ends of the pot supports round so they wouldn't tear any gear, and doing the same to any other sharp or pointy bits.

On the trail, it took only a moment to find the necessary firewood (one small bundle of twigs, broken down to fit the width of the can. A section of newspaper provided the firestarter, although I would probably take some firestarter material on a longer hike, in case no dry kindling was available.

Within a few seconds the wood took, and I added my pot with 2 cups of water to the top. It was neccessary to keep adding kindling for about 6 or 7 minutes, never allowing more than a minute to pass before adding more wood. There was a slight breeze that helped the fire along, but it's possible if the wood wasn't bone dry that I might have to blow on it occasionally.

My soup cooked up easily, although not as fast as Ian's (he brought his cannister stove). Shadow was content to eat her cold lunch, as she was ravenous after the 2 hour hike in over Mount Maguire in East Sooke Park.

Full of tasty food, we hiked another couple of hours back to the car at Anderson Cove and went home exhausted. As for the twig stove, I think it is definitely something I will use again in the future. I wouldn't want to rely on it as my only cooking source, but maybe on a two-person hike, one person could bring a canister stove as a backup, using the twig stove whenever possible to limit the amount of fuel needed. A potential savings of half a pound in fuel.

Another rescue

2007-06-28T08:32:00.000-07:00

This time it was on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. Allan Angeles, while hiking alone along the JDF Marine Trail, lost the trail in heavy rain near Sombrio Beach.

I just slipped, fell off a cliff and landed on a couple of rocks. Luckily I landed on my backpack, which cushioned me and most likely saved me.

Angeles thinks me may have passed out for an hour or so. Upon waking, he managed to climb the cliff and make camp for the night. The next day, he tried to make it back to Sombrio, but after hiking about 1.5km he was still unable to find the trail. He then went out on another cliff and started waving his tarp to flag down a fishing boat.

Luckily, two American fishermen were able to pick Angeles up and ferry him to Jordan River. From there, he was taken by ambulance to Victoria General Hospital. Angeles was diagnosed with a fractured pelvis, effectively ending this year's hiking season for him.

Once again, I wish I could have some more details on this one. Hiking 1.5 km and not being able to find the trail is quite astounding on a coastal trail. On the other hand, the particular section between Chin and Sombrio goes inland a considerable way, and in heavy rain it would be very difficult to navigate off-trail.

I'm glad we have another relatively happy ending, and I'll spare the lectures this time!

Good News

2007-06-27T10:39:00.000-07:00

A whole bunch of happy news as far as my hiking goes!

Next weekend Ian and I are going to finish the section of the Juan de Fuca trail that we missed on our last hike. We're planning to make this a 20km day hike, and use the opportunity to do some stove and fuel usage testing when we cook our lunch.

A few weeks after that, I'll be hiking the first half of the JDF again, this time with my brother. He has never hiked the JDF before, so I'm looking forward to sharing this with him. The goal will be a one-nighter, from China Beach to Sombrio, with the sleepover at Chin Beach.

And.. drumroll please.. Ian and I are planning to hike the John Muir Trail next summer. It will be our first hike requiring a resupply, so I'm looking forward to the logistics planning. Watch this spot for step-by-step planning updates! I'm already so excited to get back into the Sierras, one of the most amazing places I've ever seen.

Hiker Survives Fall From Bridge on West Coast Trail

2007-06-26T08:35:00.000-07:00

This Sunday, a couple from Edmonton had their West Coast Trail hike end shortly after it began. The Times Colonist reports that Kristie Wenger and her boyfriend, Jonah Krauskopf, accidentally left the main trail and started following an old, out of use section of trail. Wenger attempted to cross a broken, slippery log bridge, but fell when she turned around to look at Krauskopf. The fall took her 25 feet down to the creek bed, but miracuously she wasn't seriously injured.

Luckily, as they were less than 2km from the trail head, Krauskopf was able to protect Wenger from the steady rain with a sleeping bag and tarp, then head for help. At the shore of the San Juan River, he was able to wave to a group of people on the other shore. One of the group, Victoria firefighter Cody Gidney, took charge and grabbed a rope, first aid kit, and radio from the Park Wardens. With two other men, he canoed across the river, then hiked the rough trail in flipflops to Wenger.

Gidney was able to assertain that although Wenger's injuries weren't overly serious, she would need to be airlifted off the trail. Two wardens arrived and helped Gidney prepare the site for the evacuation. Roughly 5 hours after the fall, a Cormorant helicopter from CFB Comox arrived and performed a successful evacuation.

So what did we learn from this?
It's hard to determine whether this mishap was caused by poor trail marking, careless hiking, inexperience, or just plain bad luck. We've all taken a wrong turn on a trail before, which in itself is a scary experience. Maps and compasses wouldn't have helped them avoid this, only experience.

Krauskopf did everything right after the fall, from protecting Wenger from the elements to quickly heading off for help. Some things I would add that he may or may not have done:

Leave a note with the victim indicating which way you went for help, what time, and what injuries there may be. The victim may lose conscoiusness or otherwise not be able to communicate with a would-be rescuer.
Remove all scented and food items from the hiker and hang from a tree. A bear or cougar may sense the defenselessness of the victim.
Indicate on your map where the incident took place, so you can show rescuers. A digital photo may even help them find an obscure area in case you aren't able to return with the rescue team. Tie some gear around a tree where you left the main trail, and spread out your tent or tarp at the rescue site to aid helicopters or boats. Give them the colour and description of the gear.

Once again, luck and good decision making helped this incident to have a happy ending. Thank you to Cody Gidney for going above and beyond the call of duty.

(note: the above photo isn't the area where they fell, but illustrates the disrepair some areas of the trail can be in.)

Lightweight Tip of the Week: Warm Clothing

2007-06-20T08:24:00.000-07:00

I always find it hard to decide how much clothing to take on a hike. Over the years I've found I don't need many changes of clothes, and have gotten quite good at doing laundry on the trail. Where the indecision comes into play is for clothing to wear while in camp. I never get cold on the trail, as long as I keep moving. I typically hike in shorts and a tshirt, with a windproof/water-resistant shell for particularly cold mornings. Once I'm in camp, I cool down quite quickly if I'm not careful.

Rather than packing fleece pants, wool sweater, and gore-tex jacket as I used to do, I've found a few tricks to stay warm without having to carry any extra weight:

Change as soon as you get to camp. Remove wet, sweaty clothes, hang them up to air, and put on a light shirt exclusively for camp use.
Eat a warm meal as soon as possible. Even if it isn't dinner, have a cup of soup or something else quick.
Get in your sleeping bag. When we were in the Sierras, we often got to camp in the early afternoon. Rather than stand around shivering all evening (it got very cold after 5:00) we would just get into our sleeping bags and read, chat, or nap. Later, we might get up and make dinner, go for a walk, or visit other campers.
Wear everything. If you're still cold, put on a couple of shirts, your jacket, rain poncho, whatever you have that's dry. I have lightweight silk long underwear that add a surprising amount of warmth under my pants. Socks on your hands can serve as gloves, and a toque (wool hat) is on my essential gear list.
Don't sit on the ground. Cold ground or rocks will suck the warmth out of you. I use my z-lite mattress around camp, folded up to make a makeshift chair. Your pack would also suffice.
Keep busy. Go for a walk, take some photos, make dinner, hang your food.
Start a fire. Gathering wood and building a fire keeps you as warm as the fire itself. Invite some of your fellow campers to share your fire, you'll make new friends and conserve wood. Practice lighting a fire in the rain with wet wood, it's a skill that comes in very handy (as illustrated by Ian above.)

Since I've started doing all these things, I've been able to leave the extra clothing at home, saving a pound or so, but not risking getting sick or being uncomfortable. I've tried it in all conditions, from torrential rain to freezing mountain altitudes without a regret.

Lightweight Tip of the Week: Multi-use Gear

2007-06-14T08:01:00.000-07:00

A good way to lighten up your load is to avoid redundancy. A lot of gear has more uses than its original intention, or can be modified for other uses. This is different than a multi-use tool such as a Swiss Army Knife that does 10 things you don't need, rather, it's eliminating 3 items where one would suffice. The following is a list of examples, but as some of them may affect comfort/safety levels it's a good idea to try them out first before leaving something at home.

Poncho: can be used as a tarp, pack cover, emergency shelter, groundsheet, pillow...
Trekking poles: tripod, tent or tarp poles, emergency splint or crutch, fishing rod...
Spork: replaces spoon and fork (long handled version great for prepackaged meals)
Bandana: wash cloth, towel, head cover, pot holder, sling, bandage, water pre-filter...
Parachute Cord: clothes line, tarping, hanging food bag, securing splints...
Clothes: pillow, sling, socks as gloves, extra layer under sleeping bag...
Cooking Pot: bowl, cup, bucket (for emergency sandcastle building), noisemaker...
Tent Peg: splint, shovel, punch for leather repair...
Duct Tape: gear repair, blister treatment, pretty much anything...

Once you get into the habit of it, most gear can have many uses. Obviously you want to be safe and comfortable, but with a bit of work you can easily eliminate a pound or two from your load.

*note: the photo is Ian, he's smiling because our lightweight packing practices have enabled him to bring his somewhat-heavy camera equipment!

Five Hikers Rescued from West Coast Trail

2007-06-13T08:14:00.000-07:00

An article today in my local rag, The Times Colonist, describes a narrowly averted disaster on the West Coast Trail yesterday. It seems that this group was attempting to cross one of the surge channels near Owen Point and were struck by a rogue wave and swept into the channel.

After reading the article, there are several quotes that I think are worthy of mention:

The rogue wave hit the hikers about 9 a.m. A park ranger spotted the hikers and called for help about 6 p.m.

That's 9 hours before the call for help even gets placed. Owen Point is a (fairly difficult) half-day hike from the Port Renfrew trailhead, so this should be a warning of how prepared you need to be when on a remote trail. If they were further along the trail, it could have been much longer, perhaps the next day. When I spent 5 days on the trail, I only saw a ranger once.

Joe Ellis, 24, a theology student from Anchorage, Alaska, and a friend of the Petersons, jumped the wide crevice.

Don't do this! Everyone hiking the West Coast Trail gets a mandatory lecture about the dangers of surge channels and other trail dangers. None of them need to be jumped, there are trails around all of them. At least these hikers had their packs off, otherwise the outcome wouldn't have been so happy.

Peterson, who initially had reservations about hiking the trail, but decided to go along to be with her brother and father.

If you aren't 100% sure you are up for hiking a difficult trail, don't do it. You endanger yourself, other hikers, and rescue workers. For the West Coast Trail in particular, going with an experienced guide isn't enough, you need to be experienced yourself. This group had exceptional luck, combined with keeping their heads and making some good decisions, the only reason nobody was seriously hurt or killed. This is also stresses the policy of keeping your group together, and, if you are a solo hiker, wait for another hiker or group before you attempt any dangerous sections.

I'm happy that this story ended happily, and admire the courage of this group. Hopefully we can all learn something from it, and try to lower the current statistics of 50-80 rescues on the West Coast Trail annually.

West Coast Trail

2007-06-11T09:04:00.001-07:00

Well it looks like Ian won't be able to do the West Coast Trail with me this year. Anyone up for joining me in late August?

Lightweight Tip of the Week: Masking Tape

2007-06-05T09:27:00.001-07:00

My new mission is to come up with one weight-reducing tip per week to share. Please comment with your own tips, and I'll feature them in a future LTOTW.

This week's tip:
When loading your pack, put a small piece of masking tape on every piece of gear. When you're on the trail, remove the tape when you use the item. Back at home when you're unpacking, set aside any gear that still has masking tape on it, and examine whether you really needed to bring the unused item in the first place.

Some obvious exceptions are first aid kits, weather-related gear, and other repair and emergency items.

My results: I did this over several hikes in different weather conditions, and managed to shave a few ounces. I eliminated a lexan knife, small bowl, a few bits of clothing, a couple of tent pegs, and a few condiments and snacks.

Summer is here!

2007-06-01T11:33:00.000-07:00

Well it took a while to get here, but summer has officially arrived in Victoria. How do I know this? On Wednesday evening, my good friend Jade and I, along with our dogs Gus and Shadow, went to The Lake and it was warm enough to jump in!

I haven't been doing anywhere near enough hiking lately, but a walk around the lake followed by a swim was a pretty close second. Jade and I have decided to try to go to The Lake every Wednesday evening, so hopefully that, along with Ian and I's Thursday Afternoon Hike, and the soon-to-be-resurrected Sunday Hike, should eventually get me back into full hiking shape.

I believe everyone should live near The Lake. Not necessarily My Lake, but to be able to talk about The Lake and have everyone know what you mean. Happy Summer everyone!

Loss of appetite

2007-05-25T08:25:00.000-07:00

There's an ongoing discussion on backpacking.net about appetite loss when on the trail. I've found this to be true on higher altitude and/or hot, dry weather hikes. You hike all day, but when you get to camp you find, in the words of the original poster, that you "just can't choke down dinner."

I've never had to address this on sea-level hikes, or in cooler climes, but was honestly amazed that my usual insatiable appetite was gone for the first few days in the Sierras. Not only does not eating affect your energy levels, ability to stay warm, and sleeping patterns, but you have to carry that extra food for the rest of your hike!

Some of my own tips, and some suggestions from other backpacker.net forum posters:

Pack accordingly: lighter dinners for the first few nights, progressing to more satisfying meals once you aclimatize.
Meals that work as leftovers: I usually make burritos my first night, then if I don't eat them, they make a great cold breakfast snack.
Pack tasty food: If you don't truely crave the meal at home while packing it, you probably won't crave it on the trail: only pack your favorite meals, especially for the first few nights.
Stay hydrated: bring juice crystals, koolaid, iced tea, whatever will encourage you to drink more water.
Get to camp early: Spend some time relaxing in the shade, swimming, slowly drinking, and your appetite may return. Nibble on some trail mix or other easy to eat snacks.

Some other tips from the forum include packing a favorite treat (pudding!), having a heavier lunch and lighter dinner, or having a cold meal instead of cooked, rehydrated food.

Trip Report: San Javier, Mexico

2007-05-23T08:56:00.000-07:00

After this past weekend's cold and wet hike, I'm feeling the need to revisit warmer memories. The following is a report of a hike I did with Rebecca and my parents in December.

The Plan...
Rebecca and I flew to Loreto, Mexico, to spend Christmas with my parents who were spending 3 months camping and travelling around the Baja. After a few days of local sightseeing and beachcombing, we were all feeling the need to see the real Baja, and get some exercise to boot. A guidebook article suggesting the cave paintings at San Javier, about 30km away, caught our eye. Checking with the very helpful hotel concierge, we found out that guided tours to the cave paintings were over $100 per person, much more than we were willing to spend. My parents had heard of some people who drove to San Javier and asked at the police station for a guide, so we decided to give that a shot.

The Drive...
We started out with a hefty breakfast at Del Boracho, where my parents already had established a rapport with the Canadian owners. When we told them what we were up to, they scribbled out a note in Spanish to hand to someone in San Javier explaining that we were looking for a guide to the cave paintings. They also offered to make us a bagged lunch, but we had already prepared sandwiches and snacks.

The road to San Javier starts in various locations, depending upon who you ask or what signposts you believe. After 10 minutes in the wrong direction, we eventually got onto the right road and were on our way. The road is quite rough, and were were thankful for being in my dad's four wheel drive pickup. Winding our way uphill, through riverbeds, up snake-like switchbacks and over washouts, the 32km drive ends up taking nearly two hours. The area is desolate, with only the occasional shrine or ramshackle house as signs of life.

Eventually we arrive in San Javier, and are amazed by the difference in scenery. The immaculate streets are paved in cobblestone, and well tended gardens grace every sidewalk.

We find the tiny police station, grab the phrasebook, and begin an interpretive dance outlining what we're looking for. The officers chuckle over our note, and after a bit more sign language, we finally convince them that we're looking for a guide. They signal for us to wait for 5 minutes or an hour, and drive away in a cloud of dust. Some time later, a dusty gentleman shows up and we begin negotations for the price. We seem to agree on 300 pesos ($30 US), and begin the introductions. Miguel, our new friend, starts to climb into the back of our truck. As we have no idea where we're going, we convince him that he's welcome to sit in the front and offer directions.

About 20 minutes later, we arrive at a small farmhouse at the base of what we assume is to be the hill we're climbing. Miguel finds the owner of the house and obtains permission for us to cut through the farm to the start of the trail. We leave the truck at the farmhouse and begin our trek.

The Hike...
I'm not sure if they have mountain goats in Mexico, but they have Miguel. Our intrepid guide led us up a steep, rocky trail for two hours without breaking a sweat. When we stopped for water or a breather, Miguel stopped for a smoke. We took countless pictures of cacti, lizards, and other such flora and fauna, which made Miguel grin as it was probably like someone taking pictures of dandilions and mosquitos where we live. We gained considerable elevation, and were treated to incredible views of the valley below, and the Sea of Cortez far in the distance. Eventually we reached the top, and had a brief rest while our guide hunted around for a lost memory of the location of the caves. We were then waved on, and made our way along a narrow ledge to the first of two small caves.

The Paintings...
Although they don't look like much in the photos, the faded cave paintings emitted an almost overwhelming sense of history, timelessness, and awe. Seeing ancient art in its original location, without tour busses and interpretive signs, made the experience unforgettable. I'm not sure how much time we spent in the caves, taking photos and discussing the motivation and meaning of the paintings, but we finally had to leave as we still had a long hike and drive ahead of us. We had a quick bite to eat while Miguel had a smoke, then slowly picked our way down between the prickly cacti. An hour or so later we were back in the truck, and heading back to San Javier.

The Mission...
We didn't have too much time to spend in San Javier as driving at night is not desirable in this area, but the Church of San Francisco Javier, built from 1744 to 1759, was a must-see. Not really dressed for church, we timidly poked our heads in the door, where we were welcomed by two friendly ladies. Flash photography was forbidden, and so was not signing the guestbook. I abstained from my usual cheekiness and wrote a quick hello, then we explored the church and surrounding grounds. The architectural detail was fascinating, and the surround grounds were a tranquil combination of gardens, farm, and open space. A few more photos, and it was time to go.

Conclusion...
Although I saw many things and have many memories of my trip to Mexico, I think the hike in San Javier was the most enjoyable experience. From the confusion of getting there and hiring a guide, to hiking in terrain I've never even dreamed of, it had all the elements of a perfect adventure. Thank you and gracias to the owners of Del Borracho, the San Javier Police, Miguel, and all the residents of San Javier for allowing us to share your treasure!

The best laid plans...

2007-05-21T17:16:00.000-07:00

Every May Long Weekend for the past three years, my hiking partner Ian and I have hiked the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail on the West Coast of Vancouver Island. The JDF is our home turf, and is often the destination for day hikes with our friends and families. We normally spend one night near the trail head (Mystic Beach) and then two more on the trail. This year, we decided to try to cut it down to two nights total by hiking in further from the trailhead after work on Friday.

We were packed and ready to go, the tides were in our favour, and we had an itinerary we were happy with. Unfortunately, plans to leave work early were thwarted by Ian's boss, and he ended up working overtime rather than leaving early. By the time he picked me up it was close to 6:00pm, and the trailhead was an hour's drive away. We weren't comfortable with trying to make it to Bear Beach before dark, and as the trail is muddy and slippery at the best of times, had no interest in night hiking. We decided to adjust our itinerary and camp at Mystic Beach near the trailhead once again.

The hike down to Mystic Beach is quite simple, and took us 30 minutes. Mystic is a popular beach for camping, so we staked out a spot quickly before the cooler-toting crowd took all the good spots. It's important to know the tides when camping on the beach, and we made sure we were well above the high tide line. The previous year, some teenagers were camping below the tide line, but didn't seem interested in any advice from the rest of us. We heard shouts during the night, and woke up to see them sleeping in the trees with wet gear hanging from the branches. But I digress. While getting dinner ready, I reached into my pocket to discover our payment envelope that was supposed to be deposited in the box at the trailhead. Whoops. 45 minutes later, we were back at camp just as the light was fading. We stayed up a bit longer to meet our neighbours and their dog, Duncan.

Saturday morning, we revisited our itinerary and tried to figure out if we could still finish the trail by Sunday evening in time to catch the trail bus at around 5. It wasn't critical that we did, as we had made arrangements for my girlfriend, Rebecca, to meet us at Botanical Beach midday Monday. Still, we like to set lofty goals, so we figured we'd try to make it to Sombrio Beach, 25.5 km away. I have been training quite a bit lately, and was feeling optomistic, but Ian hasn't been active for the winter and was a bit less eager. We decided to get to Chin Beach, 19 km away, and decide then.

We left Mystic Beach at 8:45 after a breakfast of oatmeal and coffee, and arrived at Bear Beach at 10:25. There we had our second breakfast to give us energy for the most gruelling section of the trail ahead. Between Bear and Chin, the trail goes away from the ocean and over 8, 9, 0r 17 (depending upon who you ask) steep hills, tumbling back down to cross a creek, then back up again. Through the old growth areas the trail was in good shape, with a slight mist to keep you cool. In areas that had been clearcut many years ago, the ground was muddy, wet, and lacked the bright green undergrowth so prevalent in the old growth portions. Some of the river crossings were in need of repair after this past winter's violent storms. On the third hill climb, we stopped for a snack and Ian mentioned that his knee was starting to bother him. We slowed our pace, and pushed on to Chin.

Coming out of the forest at Chin Beach at 3:45, we could see off to the South West and the huge storm clouds blowing our way. Heavy rain was inevitable, and Ian's knee was no better, so we quickly set up camp before the rains came. We managed to set up our tent and a small tarp for a sitting area literally seconds before the skies opened up. For the rest of the evening, the rain came and went, and our view gave us 20 minutes warning before each downpour. Ian got a nice warm fire going despite the lack of dry wood, and we spent the evening under the tarp relaxing and eating. At 10 we let the fire go out, stashed our food in the provided bearproof lockers, and went quickly to sleep.

The rains came in earnest Saturday night, and didn't show any sign of stopping on Sunday. The tarp let us eat breakfast and pack up our gear in relative comfort, then we raced to take down the tent without it getting too wet. Finishing the trail tonight was no longer an option, so we planned to head to Payzant Creek, 19 km away. This would allow for a short 7 km hike on Monday morning to meet Rebecca at noon.

The rain was heavy, but this section was mostly forest hiking so we were somewhat sheltered. Our pace was slowing, and Ian's knee was really starting to bother him. At Loss Creek there's a side trail up to highway 14, and I let Ian decide if we should quit or keep going. He wanted to keep going, so we made for Sombrio Beach for elevensies.

At Sombrio, it was obvious Ian wasn't going to be able to finish the hike. We had a quick snack under a tree, then made our escape from the trail. Sombrio is accessible by car and is a popular beach for surfers. We made our way to the parking lot, then headed up the long gravel road up to the highway. Half an our later we arrived at the highway, dropped our packs, tried to look as miserable and pathetic as possible, and stuck up our thumbs. For 20 minutes we obviously didn't look pathetic enough, but finally the rain soaked every last bit of us and we reached the point where nobody with a heart could ignore us. Two very kind people and their puppy told us they were going to China Beach, which was perfect as that's where Ian's Jeep was.

Ian dropped me off at home, shivering at wet. I gave my dog a wet hug then crawled into a steaming hot shower. I'm disappointed that we didn't complete the trail, but also happy that we made the right decisions throughout and didn't risk any more injury or misery.

Sleeping Bags: down vs. synthetic

2007-05-17T08:54:00.000-07:00

A good sleeping bag can last you many years, and at $200 or more is a considerable investment. Before purchasing a new sleeping bag, do as much research as you possibly can: read reviews, talk to an experienced outfitter, and get recommendations from people who hike in the same conditions and areas as yourself.

In this entry I'm only going to address one issue: my preference of fill (down or synthetic). I've tried both kinds of bags in all kinds of conditions, and have definately joined the pro-down team, for the following reasons:

Weight: A quality down bag is lighter than a comparable synthetic fill.
Compactability: Down bags compress well, freeing up valuable pack space. (Don't use a compression sack if you can avoid it, check with the manufacturer for packing guidelines)
Loft: With careful storage and maintenance, a down bag will retain its loft for many years. Be certain the bag has adequate baffles to avoid any shifting of the fill.

Drawbacks

Down offers no insulating value when wet, so it's very important to keep your bag dry. Use a quality stuff sack, then wrap in a garbage back. If you're going into very wet conditions, consider an overbag.
Down is more expensive than synthetic fills, but as a sleeping bag will last you many years, the extra value here is worth it.

For the past few years I've been using a GoLite 700 fill down bag, in all sorts of conditions. I'm careful about keeping it dry, but the exterior has a moisture-resistant coating so a small amount of condensation doesn't do any damage.

Tips

Treat your sleeping bag with more care than any other piece of gear. Check the manufacturer's web site for cleaning and care instructions, and only use the highest quality cleaning products. I use Nikwax Down Wash once a year, handwashing in the bathtub with lukewarm water, then tumble drying on low until 100% dry. Your requirements may vary.
At home, always store your sleeping bag in a large cotton bag (the good bags will come with one), hung in a ventilated closet.
On the trail, unpack your sleeping bag as soon as you arrive at camp, and allow it to regain its loft in the sun if possible, or in your tent. Keep it away from the fire, one small hole will allow moisture to penetrate the outer layer.
Compact with care: don't use a compression bag.
Don't assume that because it isn't raining, your bag can't get wet (see photo below!)

Leatherman Squirt P4

2007-05-15T21:17:00.000-07:00

Last summer I bought a Leatherman Squirt P4 multitool, and have been quite happy with it. It was the smallest, lightest tool I could find within my price range, and the Leatherman brand came well recommended. I was worried that I would miss a longer knife blade, especially as the only cutlery I take hiking is a lexan spoon, but I haven't really missed it.

This past winter, while walking the dog in my neighbourhood, I stopped to help a little boy who was quite distraught and near tears. Somehow, while on an errand to the mailbox for his mom, he had gotten the mailbox door locked with the keychain halfway inside. His eyes lit up when I pulled out my Leatherman Squirt, unfolded it to magically create pliers, and, with some effort, freed his keys. Unfortunately, and possibly due to the below-freezing temperature, one of the arms of the pliers broke off in the process.

Yesterday afternoon, while packing for this weekend's hike, I realized I hadn't replaced the Squirt yet, so started to research a good replacement. A lot of reviews remarked on Leatherman's generous warranty. It hadn't occured to me to take it back, as I figured the Squirt, being a "miniature" tool, wouldn't be covered for breakages involving force. Deciding it couldn't hurt, I took it into MEC today where they happily exchanged it for the display model (they were out of stock) with no questions asked. I didn't have my receipt, but they were able to verify the purchase through my membership number.

Leatherman and Mountain Equipment Co-op definately earned some points with me today.

Packing

2007-05-15T19:56:00.000-07:00

It's 3 sleeps until we hit the trail, so time to do a test pack to see how everything feels. I am a big fan of checklists, and keep a text file on my computer with a general list, modify it for the season and duration of the hike, then save it with the trail name and date for future reference. I also like to make notes of possible ways to reduce weight for future trips, and after the hike will update it with any wishes.

This packing list should only be used as a guideline, as everyones needs will vary. I'm including the weights of items so it's easy to target the biggest culprits. The first useful pack list I saw on my discovery of lightweight backpacking was the 27 pound, 7 day checklist at backpacking.net. It gives me something to work towards, and lets me know I'm on the right track. Before I made my discovery, my pack was probably over 50 pounds (I wish I'd weighed it back then.. oh well.) and now averages around 20 without food & fuel.

Weights are in ounces, although I think I'll be switching to grams as math is hard. Do you see anything else that I should highlight in red? I'm not prepared to spend $100 to save an ounce or two, but each year I like to reduce one or two things when possible. Luxury items are things I've decided, for this specific hike, are worth the extra weight in the name of enjoyment or comfort. This is a bit of a balancing act, and it's easy to get into the "just one more [random item]" trap.

I should also note that every item listed here goes inside the pack, I don't like anything strapped to the outside. Gear that swings around puts undue strain on your muscles, and on hikes like the Juan de Fuca, which involve lots of scrambling and navigating between trees, nothing should protrude above my head, below my belt, or be wider than my shoulders. On a longer hike I'll start out with the Z-Rest strapped to the outside, but will move it inside as soon as my food bag shrinks a bit.

Colour Key:
Necessary Item (for me)
Luxury Item
Candidate for Weight Reduction

Pack
Silnylon pack cover (2.8)
Gregory Z backpack (50.0)

Tent & Sleep System
5x8 Siltarp [we're hiking in a coastal rainforest, after all] (7.4)
Tent poles, pegs, guy lines in bag (24.0)
Tent body [fly and groundsheet carried by hiking partner] (36.6)
Golite Down sleeping bag in bag (26.2)
Thermarest Z-Lite mattress (14.4)

Clothing
Gaitors (7.0)
Waterproof poncho (10.7)
Gloves (4.5)
MEC Pamir jacket (16.4)
PJ bottoms (10.1)
Fleece top - mid layer (8.1)
Warm, quick-dry shirt (8.5)
Warm camp socks (2.7)
Hiking socks (2.1)
Hiking socks (2.1)
Hiking shirt (4.5)
Hiking shirt (4.5)
Waterproof stuffsac for clothing (4.0)
Sandals (25.8)
Fleece toque (2.1)

Safety/Hygeine
First aid kit (7.4)
Toothbrush (0.7)
Toothpaste (0.5)
Knee brace (2.3)
Toilet paper in waterproof bag (1.8)
Fast-drying towel (0.6)
Sunglasses (2.9)
Water filter and maintenance supplies in mesh bag (17.7)
Alcohol cleaning pads (2.1)
LED headlamp (1.1)
Bug spray (1.5)
Sunscreen (1.0)
Lip balm (0.4)
3 pairs of earplugs (0.1)
Floss (0.1)

Kitchen
Fire starting [lighter, waterproof matches, 2 tealights] (2.0)
Stove in plastic case (3.8)
Fuel (16.0)
Titanium cooking pot in bag (5.4)
Insulated mug with lid (4.5)
3 litre bladder [empty] (8.2)
Lexan fork (0.2)
Lexan spoon (0.2)
Water bottle (1.9)

Misc
Hankerchief (0.8)
Spare boot laces (0.7)
Sharpie marker (0.3)
Camera in waterproof bag (11.6)
Book [thick 1000 pager] (16.7)
JDF Marine Trail Guide + Map (7.2)
ID & Cash in ziploc (0.2)
Cel phone in waterproof bag [off except for emergencies] (3.7)
Notepad & pencil (1.6)

Food
Meals & snacks for 3 nights (48)

Total dry (before food, fuel & water) pack weight is approximately 21 pounds. Of that, nearly 4 pounds are "luxury" items. I'm comfortable with this pack weight, but if it were a longer distance I would definately start to pare down the luxury items. I find an evening around camp with a good book will do wonders for my energy level and motivation, so easily justifies the extra weight. Ideally, I'll find a smaller book to take with me, but I just started Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell and am enjoying it. The camera and notepad are so I can document the trip to entertain you fine folks, and the rest of the luxury items are for my own comfort in the damp coastal conditions.

Footwear

2007-05-14T17:42:00.000-07:00

When I was outfitting for my first High Sierra Trail attempt, most of my gear advice was from the staff at an outfitter chain. When it got to footwear, they were quite adamant that a good, sturdy pair of hiking boots was a must for trekking in the mountains. I ended up with some waterproof, all leather mountaineering boots weighing in at just under 4 pounds for the pair. I can't imagine why I got blisters...

For my second Sierra attempt, I did a lot more research, mostly on the Web. A common adage I noticed was "A pound on the foot is worth 5 on the back" or other similar variations. Although the issue seems to be continually debated, hiking shoes were definately winning out with lightweight backpackers. I went to a local, knowledgable outfitter and ended up with a good quality, breathable pair of hiking shoes weighing just over 2 pounds for the pair. If the adage is true, I just shaved nearly 10 pounds off my load! Not to mention they were less than half the price of the boots.

Not wanting to go blindly this time, I tested out the hiking shoes on a lot of local trails, and was absolutely thrilled with the results. They didn't need to be broken in, my feet stayed cool and dry so I didn't get blisters, and the flexibility made scrambling up steep rocky trails much easier. I wore them on my second High Sierra Trail hike, and I'm sure they're a big part of why I enjoyed that hike so much.

I should mention some drawbacks. Not being waterproof, I don't enjoy wearing them on coastal hikes where mud is an issue, and it also takes some getting used to a thinner sole and feeling sharp rocks beneath your feet. For people with weaker ankles or very heavy packs (we'll talk to you later..) you won't get any ankle support with hiking shoes.

For coastal hikes such as the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail and the West Coast Trail (both to be reviewed here soon) I prefer to go with a lightweight boot. I have a pair of Garmont boots that are Goretex and leather, and I absolutely love them. At about 3 pounds for the pair, they aren't too heavy, they are waterproof, and they have ankle support for the slippery coastal rocks and boardwalks.

Summary? Hiking shoes for dry, mountain hikes, and lightweight boots for wet, coastal hikes. Always look after your gear with the appropriate cleaner and waterproofing - I'm personally a big fan of Nikwax products, but I will usually check the manufacturer's web site to see what they recommend.

Menu Planning

2007-05-13T18:31:00.000-07:00

The upcoming May Long Weekend we will be doing our third annual hike of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. As we're going to leave Friday right after work, I decided to get my meal planning and preparation out of the way today.

We're spending three nights on the trail, so we'll need 3 breakfasts, 3 lunches, and 3 dinners, as well as the usual assortment of trail mix and snacks. My goal is to have each day's food weigh under 2 pounds, and cost under $20. I like to have a combination of commercially packaged and homemade meals. A second breakfast is something I'll add for shorter (less than 4 day) hikes as the extra weight isn't noticed. The mornings on the coast in May are cold and wet, so the extra food helps you stay warm. I have gotten away with around 1.5 pounds per day, but was often hungry in the afternoons.

I find it a good idea to label a large ziploc bag for each day you're on the trail, and fill it with all the snacks and meals for that day, with dinner at the bottom and pack up to breakfast at the top. This saves a lot of rooting around in your food bag, and makes carrying food to and from the bear lockers much easier. Additionally, if anything leaks, there's an additional layer to protect the rest of your gear. I'll also label each meal with the amount of water and instructions on a piece of masking tape.

Friday [0 lb 10.5 oz]

Dinner: Forever Young Macaroni & Cheese w/Veggies (AlpineAire Foods); 6 oatmeal chocolate chip cookies

Saturday [2 lbs]

Breakfast: 2 packages of Nature's Path Organic Apple Cinnamon instant oatmeal with a handful of dehydrated blueberries & strawberries; instant coffee, Emer'gen-C instant Cranberry juice (vitamin supplement); Kettle Valley organic fruit snack
Second Breakfast: 2 small flour tortillas with Nutella
Lunch: AplineAire Tuna & Crackers, trail mix, granola bar
Dinner: Ez Matt's Burritos (see recipe here)

Sunday [1 lb 10 oz]

Breakfast: high energy cereal and powdered mil with a handful of dehydrated blueberries & strawberries; instant coffee, Emer'gen-C instant orange juice (vitamin supplement); Kettle Valley organic fruit snack
Second Breakfast: 2 small flour tortillas with blackberry jam
Lunch: Ramen noodles, cheese, trail mix, granola bar
Dinner: Instant mashed potatoes with mushroom gravy (see recipe below) , stuffing, 3 squares of dark chocolate

Monday [1 lb 5 oz]

Breakfast: 2 packages of Nature's Path Organic Flax n Oats instant oatmeal with a handful of dehydrated blueberries & strawberries; instant coffee, Emer'gen-C instant citrus juice (vitamin supplement); Kettle Valley organic fruit snack
Second Breakfast: 2 small flour tortillas with nutella
Lunch: Thai Kitchen Garlic & Vegetable noodle soup, crackers & cheese

Misc: [5 oz]

Gatorade powder, sugar, powdered milk, tea bags, 1 emergency meal (soup), extra snack

Well, I spent under $60 and altogether it weighs about 6 pounds. Success! When I get back I'll post a summary of what worked well and what didn't (and why.)

RECIPE: Instant Mashed Potatoes
1 cup instant potato flakes
1 tablespoon Kraft Parmesan Cheese
1 pinch of garlic salt
1 tablespoon skim milk powder
half of a 21g package of mushroom gravy mix

At home: package the first 4 ingredients into a regular ziploc bag, and the gravy mix into a ziploc freezer bag.
On the trail: boil 1.5 cups of water, then carefully pour half a cup into the gravy bag and allow to reconstitute. Pour the potato mix into the remaining cup of water and mash with a fork. When the gravy is ready (about 5 mins) pour onto the potatoes and enjoy!

Book Review: Lip Smackin' Vegetarian Backpackin'

2007-05-12T17:25:00.000-07:00

Full Title: Lipsmackin' Vegetarian Backpackin': Lightweight Trail-tested Vegetarian Recipes for Backcountry Trips
Author: Christine and Tim Conners

This book is the sequel to the top-selling Lipsmackin' Backpackin': Lightweight Trail-tested Recipes for Backcountry Trips, which I'll have to get Ian to write a review for as I'm a tree-hugging vegetarian.

The book begins with an introduction to using the book, and a primer on dehydrator use. The next chapters are divided into recipes for breakfast, lunch, dinner, breads, snacks & desserts, and drinks. With more than 150 recipes, it helps to spend some time reading through them all and place some post-it notes on recipes that catch your eye.

When I first started using this book, my choices were fairly limited as I didn't have a dehydrator. I was still able to make quite a few meals, but probably less than 1/3 of the book. While some of the dehydrator recipes are quite fantastic, I would suggest trying some of the non-dehydrator recipes before you make a purchase. I eventually did buy one, and eventually plan to write a dehydrating guide.

OK, let's eat!

The most important advice I can offer with this book is to TRY the recipes first, either at home or on a weekend hike. Not heeding this advice, Ian and I had to dip into our extra rations after burying a batch of Green Dragon Pad Thai. Needless to say, if a recipe calls for lime Kool-Aid: skip it and try the next one.

Speaking of the next one, my absolute favorite recipe in this book has to be Ez-Ed's Burritos, page 92. As with most of the recipes, I had to adapt them to my taste, and to what products were available in my area. At the bottom of this review is Ez Matt's version of Ez Ed's Burritos. (Props to Ed Molash for the original recipe.) Some of my other favorites include Black Mountain Potatoes (page 97), Cheese Coins (which are so good they will become trail currency - page 56), and Fuji Feast (page 88).

Overall, I have now added about 10 recipes to my regular list of backpacking food. A lot of the recipes are for drinks and desserts, which are luxuries I normally don't find necessary for a truely lightweight backpacking experience. There are also a fair number of trailmix recipes, which I found inspired me to try some different combinations in my usual GORP - especially dehydring my own strawberries!

I would strongly recommend this book to anyone who enjoys cooking, and is adventurous with their flavour combinations. If you are kitchen-impaired, or happy with ramen noodles, it might not be such a good purchase. The binding on the book leaves something to be desired, as it doesn't lay flat. Recipe book publishers who don't twin-loop or spiral bind their books need to spend more time in the kitchen and less in the print shop. That aside, it is still the book I reach for when beginning to prepare a meal plan for an upcoming hike.

Ez Matt's Tent-Warming Burritos

1 cup Uncle Ben's instant rice
2 packages (cup of soup style) Nile Spice Black Bean Soup
2 packages (cup of soup style) Nile Spice Sweet Corn Chowder
1/4 cup dried chopped onions
3 tablespoons textured vegetable protein
1 tablespoon dried cilantro
1 tablespoon dried parsley
1 teaspoon dried seaweed flakes/crumbled nori
1 tablespoon nutritional yeast
1 tablespoon tomato cheese sauce mix
1 teaspoon dried chili peppers

Mix all ingredients together and divide evenly into 4 ziplock freezer bags. On the trail, add 1.5 cups of boiling water to the bag (caution: read the book's primer on using Ziploc bags with hot water!), wrap the bag in a towel and knead for a minute. Leave wrapped, and allow to sit for at least 10 minutes with an occasional kneading. Try a small amount to make sure the rice is soft, then squeeze onto 2 tortillas and roll. Add fast-food hot sauce packets if you have them, or dehydrate some salsa.

Thursday afternoon hike

2007-05-10T19:30:00.000-07:00

Every Thursday, Ian and I take Shadow on a hike from my house to Mill Hill. As we have decided to hike the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail on the May long weekend, we figured we need to start increasing the intensity of our Thursday hikes. Today we did a little over two hours, hiking over Mill Hill to Thetis Lake, over Seymour Hill, then back over Mill Hill and home again. My guestimate is 6km round trip, but I'll need to borrow a GPS to verify that.

Mill Hill is in full Spring bloom, and is one of my favorite places on the Island. There's Garry Oaks, Arbutus, and panoramic views of Victoria and the Sooke Hills. Unfortunately, neither of us brought a camera, so I'll tease you with a photo from last fall.

While hiking, we decide that we'll do the entire Juan de Fuca Marine Trail on the long weekend, rather than just a one-nighter as we had originally planned. I am optimistic that we can shorten our usual duration on the trail and complete it in two nights rather than three. Ian is feeling a bit out of shape after a somewhat lazy Winter, and isn't quite so certain. We're leaving the scheduling open, and will have a few options for dealing with tides and transportation. I'll post a full report when we get back!

High Sierra Trail: Take Two

2005-09-20T10:46:00.000-07:00

The High Sierra Trail had been on my mind since our failed attempt six years earlier. Our year of training was over, and the time to see if it would pay off had arrived. California, here we come again!

As we had made the drive to California several times before, the drive was fairly uneventful, and was mostly spent assuring ourselves that we were ready. Rather than a motel, we decided to camp in Sequoia National Park, as they have free wilderness camping (you just need to get a free fire permit). Camping at this height would help us to acclimatize and make the next morning a bit easier.

The first good sign on day one was being able to put our packs on without help. They were laden with 7 days of food and lots of water, but still weighed less than half the previous attempt. In the Crescent Meadow parking lot we met a few happy British folks and had a brief chat about our itineraries. It turns out we had both visited the same NPS Web site (unfortunately no longer available), and had identical plans. Company is always nice, especially two or three pleasant looking chaps from England, Ian and I's country of birth.

The previous morning while doing a short day hike we encountered a bear in the area around Crescent Meadow, but today we just had the fresh clean faces of eager hikers preparing for their day. It was 7:00 am, and the tourists and day hikers hadn't emerged from their Winnebagos yet, a good time to put some miles behind us. The first few hours of the trail take us through dense Sequoia groves, Sugar Pine forests, and trails littered with cones the size of Ian's head. Don't get me wrong - Ian doesn't have an oversized head, but that's still a pretty large pinecone. We've been here before, but this time we're feeling good, and can actually enjoy the scenery.

We're moving at a good pace, stopping for short but regular breaks, and staying hydrated. After a few hours, the forest spits us out at Eagle View, overlooking a 1000 foot drop into the Kaweah River Gorge. A few shallow creek crossings, various photo breaks, and a short lunch break later, we arrive at Bearpaw Meadow campground in the early afternoon. We're well ahead of schedule, but we know the next day is the one that killed us last time, so we take the time to relax and explore the camp. Bearpaw is a well-used campground, and has such luxuries as water taps and outhouses. It's shaded, and at 7,800 feet gets cold quite early. During the course of the evening we hear various hoots and hollers from the nearby privately-operated Tent Hotel, to which we attribute a visit from a curious bear. After a few hours the aforementioned Brits make their entrance, all 21 of them. It turns out they are a group of officers from various British military services on a family building exercise. We had leapfrogged groups of them in the morning, and now took the time to make our formal introductions. Bed time soon comes around, and everyone retires to their little clearing to rest up for the next day.

Day two, and we're feeling stiff but ready for adventure. We're up early, but have a leisurely breakfast and pack quietly so as not to wake the snoring Brits. As we're heading out of camp, they start to lumber out of their tents, and gawk at the amount of gear they have to stuff back into their packs, or Bergens. (we hear this as "burgers" for the trip, but later discover that a Bergen is a kind of military rucksack.) We notice a few jealous glances at our small backpacks, and head out with a smile and a wave.

Lunch time on day two is spent at arguably the most beautiful campsite on the trail, Upper Hamilton Lake. This was where we ended our backpacking last year, but this time we arrive before noon and in good spirits. For some reason we end up on opposite sides of the lake, but take the opportunity to have a quick ice-cold swim and a quiet lunch. One of our weight-saving methods is to cook most meals, including lunches. We enjoy the sunshine and tranquility for a half an hour, then psyche ourselves up for the trip over Kaweah Gap (10,700 feet).

The march up to Prescipice Lake is one of my favorite parts of the trail. Each switchback shows you a slowly shrinking view of Hamilton Lake, a the first feeling of really being in the mountains hits you. A huge gorge reveals the remnants of an old suspension bridge, built in 1932, that was destroyed by an avalanche in 1937. Instead of replacing it, the talented Civilian Conservation Corps carved a shelf along the cliff edge, and somehow blasted a tunnel through the granite. Eventually we make it to the top of Kaweah Gap, and admire the view of Big Arroyo Canyon.

From here, there's nowhere to go but down. A few small lakes dot the rock strewn path, with small patches of green here and there. In the distance is what we assume to be our destination for the day, Big Arroyo Junction. The scenery on this side of the Gap is quite a contrast to the other side, with big open meadows interspersed with Sugar Pine forests. We're a bit tired at this point, and proceed in a one-foot-infront-of-the-other fashion. The day grows longer, but we're still not sure how much further it is to camp.

It turns out that Big Arroyo Junction is a lot further than we thought, and we arrive at camp quite late in the afternoon. Only one other person (Tim?) is there, and we become quick friends. Tim has lightweight backpacking down to an artform, and shows us his method of having all meals be perfectly square (not vitamin-wise, but geometrically) and weighing 1.5 pounds each. We gawk in amazement, and carefully put our plethora of ziploc baggies out of Tim's sight. We have a nice little fire and swap stories of life, the universe, and everything. We worry about where the Brits are, but not enough to keep us from falling asleep quickly.

Day 3, and we're greeted by the first wave of Brits as we're packing up camp. It seems they couldn't figure out how far the camp was either, and ended up sleeping on the trail a few miles back. Today's hike is relatively short (8 miles) and takes us to Moraine Lake, an amazing camp site in the trees beside an equally amazing lake. We have plenty of time here to relax, swim, and do laundry, as we arrive shortly after lunch. We realize that we could quite easily cover more miles in a day, but opt not to adjust our itinerary. We've come to like the company of the Brits, and Rebecca isn't meeting us until day 7 anyway, so arriving early wouldn't serve any purpose.

Spririts have been fairly low among the Brits, with one soldier sitting on his pack and refusing to go on. Today's easier hike has lifted their spirits somewhat, and they enjoy splasihing around in the lake and spending a relaxing afternoon, their heavy packs forgotten for the time being.

On day 4 we're up with the sun, pause to snap a photo of the mist-covered lake, and on the trail early. Tonight's camp site is Kern Hot Springs, and the idea of a hot bath is foremost on our minds. We pass through a beautiful open marshy area, then plunge into a Jeffrey Pine forest as we proceed along the canyon. Early in the afternoon we arrive at Kern Hot Springs, which is exactly as promised. A roughly made cement bath tub, with plugs to control the flow of hot spring water, proves irresistable. We quickly set up camp, then each take our turns with a long soak in the tub. We want to make the most of it before 3 dozen soldiers have their go. Later in the evening, I have another soak or two after the Brits have finished their turn. Ian hopes to share a bath with Lynn, one of the prettier co-ed officers, but unfortunately it happens only in his imagination. We also discover that one of the troops has managed to spill honey inside her backpack, earning her the endearing nickname of Honeypants.

The hot springs did wonders for our sore muscles, and the next morning we are excited to get on the trail and explore new territory. The Brits made an early start, which gave us the opportunity for another quick morning bath before hitting the trail. At this point we noticed, a bit too late, that the campsite actually had a rough outhouse - alas, alas.

We're now on day 5, and proceeding along the bottom of Kern Canyon. Even though there's no panoramic views from within the canyon, each corner brings new scenery and points of interest. The sides of the canyon range from 2000' to 5000', so we don't see the sun until close to lunch, when it quickly turns from cool to dry and hot. The Brits have arranged for a resupply via mule team at lunch time today, so we join in the excitement as they exchange huge loads of garbage for huge loads of food. We also take the opportunity to discreetly ask the Staff Seargant for some extra toilet paper. He politely shouts at the top of his lungs for someone to bring the Canadians some toilet paper. A couple of the young ladies comply, much to our embarrasment. They also invite us to load up on MREs (Meals Ready to Eat), where we grab a few treats to sample. I'm partial to the crackers and jam, and Ian is impressed by the single-use disposable camp stoves. Ah, military efficiency!

In the afternoon we begin the ascent out of the canyon towards Junction Meadow, where the High Sierra Trail intersects with the John Muir Trail (our goal for 2008). At Junction Meadow we meet Brian, a US Marine who is nearing the end of a 3 week hike of the John Muir Trail. This turns out to be quite a busy camp site, and we make lots of new friends. There is plenty of room, and everyone finds a place to call home for the night.

Day 6 has us heading to Guitar Lake, the last campsite before Mt Whitney. We're starting to realize that our goal is within sight, and we're still feeling great. Our packs are now lighter than ever, with only a couple days' food left, we're acclimatized, and healthy. Ian is a bit worried about an ankle injury he got a few days prior, but one of the British medics provided him with a neoprene support and it's proving to be effective. The day is uneventful as we slowly gain elevation, and in the early afternoon we arrive at Guitar Lake. After finding a sheltered spot to set up camp (it's very windy at Guitar Lake) we proceed to do some exploring. We hike around for a few hours, and then head back to the camp site to greet the arrival of the army. The flat area around Guitar Lake is a sensitive alpine meadow, so the small camping area becomes densly packed with tents. With the close proximity of our neighbours, and the excitement of tomorrow's summit, we stay up later than normal telling jokes and stories with the troops. Fires aren't allowed at this elevation, so we wear everything we brought and stand around shivering. Eventually we go to bed, and drift off to sleep with dreams of sumitting Mt Whitney in the morning.

It's summit day, and everyone is up extra-early for today's long hike. The trail quickly gains elevation, and switchbacks its way up the "back" side of Mt Whitney. After a few hours of hard work, we reach Trail Crest, where the spur trail to the summit turns off. Most hikers opt to leave their packs here and just take a snack and water up to the summit with them. There's no water to be had on the trail, so we have plenty with us. The packs are relatively safe to leave unattended as we're too high for bears, and the bear-cannister will deter any rodents. The trail becomes quite busy at this point, as we combine with day- and weekend-hikers from Whitney Portal. Everyone is exhausted but in high spirits as the summit gets closer and closer.

We made it! The highest point in the continental US, 14,495 feet! We celebrate with a few photos, and a couple of shots of overproof rum, courtesy of some friends we made at the summit. We spend about an hour exploring and recouperating, then pry ourselves away to begin the descent. 20 minutes into our descent, we run into the Brits on their way up. It didn't take much taunting for them to convince us to join them going back to the summit. We really wanted a picture of ourselves with them at the top, so off we went, two summits in one day!

After two dozen pictures from two dozen cameras, we depart for the second time and head back to pick up our packs from Trail Crest. The long march down takes us past 100 switchbacks, and we're glad we didn't begin our hike at this end. Many people attempt it and fail, and we pass people still trying to attempt it, who will most likely be hiking home in the dark.

That night, we make camp at Trail Camp, a busy camp site with amazing views of the summit. Later in the evening, the Brits pass us, but decide to head further down to Outpost Camp to enable a shorter trip the next day. We're disappointed that we don't get to spend our last evening with them, and hope to catch them the next morning before they get picked up.

The trip down to Whitney Portal was pleasant, and we past many hikers beginning their gruelling climb up. The downhill hike was very fast, and before we knew it we were at Whitney Portal Store, along with all the Brits. The biggest breakfasts we've ever seen are ordered, and we share a pancake the size of Rhode Island. Seriously, it was at least 3 feet across. I gained back the 10 pounds I lost on the trip in one meal. Shortly thereafter, the Brits get picked up and are whisked away to their next adventure.

Rebecca is meeting us at the nearby campground, so we go for a walk to see if she's there. It's still fairly early, so Rebecca hasn't arrived yet. We walk back up to the store where Brian, who is also getting picked up later in the day, teaches us some card games and swaps stories. We have a large lunch from the store, then begin to wonder why Rebecca isn't here yet. We invite Brian to join us on a walk to the campsite, where we eventually meet Rebecca, who cooks us all an amazing dinner. Brian gets ahold of his family and arranges for them to meet us at the camp site, so he can join us for the evening campfire. We're sad to be off the trail, but are still revelling in the accomplishment. We're now hooked on adventure, and know that we'll be coming back.

Awakenings

2004-09-10T14:20:00.000-07:00

So, here we are, five years later. Ian, my intrepid hiking partner, suggests we give backpacking another shot. A discussion begins with some local trip ideas, and perhaps a loftier goal to train for. I have a brilliant idea: why don't we attempt the High Sierra Trail again?

A pause.

After the last time, didn't we agree to never go there again, even if someone suggests it in five years?

Yes, but this time it will be *different*. We'll research, we'll train, and we'll lighten our load. We both agreed to commit to a year of preparations, and came up with the following goals:

learn how to get our packs to a respectable weight
work out regularly
two training hikes a week
come up with a more realistic itinerary for the trail

I'm proud to say that we accomplished each of these goals, as detailed below:

Learn how to get our packs to a respectable weight.
The Internet proved to be our most valuable resource for this. Lists were made and revised, equipment was weighed down to the gram, and judgements were passed on each others' choices. No punches were pulled here, and our packs got to below 35 pounds for a 7 day hike, including food!
Work out regularly.
Our routines differed here, but mine involved 3 weekly gym workouts, consisting of 35 minutes of stairmaster/eliptical, 10 minutes of stretching, 10 minutes of free weights, and a 15 minute rowing or cycling session.
Two training hikes per week.
Once a week after work we did a 45 minute steep mountain hike up Mt. Finlayson in Goldstream Provincial Park, then every Sunday we went on a longer but more leisurely hike, usually with friends, to various parks around the island.
More Realistic Itinerary.
On the first attempt, we attempted to spend ten days on the trail, going from Crescent Meadow to Mt Whitney, then all the way back again, for a total of nearly 130 miles with no resupplies. This time, we decided to spend 7 days on the trail, and only go one direction. My wonderful girlfriend Rebecca offered to drive all the way down from Victoria to meet us at Whitney Portal, and drive us back across the mountains to pick up Ian's jeep.

Onward, then, to the trail!

Incomplete (High Sierra Trail Take One)

2000-10-10T13:54:00.000-07:00

Ian and I had backpacking ambitions. We had a few camping trips and outdoor adventures under our belts, but we wanted to really get our feet wet - without actually getting our feet wet. Because we live less than an hour from the world famous West Coast Trail, we concluded that our first hike should be in the Sierra Nevada mountain range in California, several thousand miles away. A little bit of Web research later and the High Sierra Trail was decided upon, and booked for 6 months away. Plenty of time to train, research, and buy gear, right?

Right. We got straight to it, borrowing and buying gear, stuffing food in ziplocs, and even going on two or three training hikes. Then we got busy with working overtime, new relationships, and all the other things that are part of life. Suddenly it's time to cram everything into our backpacks and get in the truck. We're feeling pretty good, but both wish we had spent more time training. Still, the summit (Mount Whitney, 14,495 feet) is on day 6, so we'll be in good shape by then. Our adventure begins.

A brief stop near Seattle to visit some friends and load up on Papa Murphy's Take & Bake (a treat for Canadians, we don't know the concept yet here), a quadruple Americano from a drive-through coffee stand (also a rarity in Canada) and we're on the way. California, here we come!

It's the night before the hike, and we're in our motel room in Three Rivers. We had to rent bear cannisters, which are rated to hold 5-7 people days' worth of food each. We opt to get 3, figuring it should be enough for our 10 day hike. About half the food fit in on the first pack. Slightly better on the second, but still nowhere near. Uhoh - perhaps we packed too much food? We proceeded to stuff our faces with trail mix, sort out the essentials from the treats, and repackage everything. We finally fit what we consider to be necessary into the three cannisters, proceed to trying to fit them into our backpacks. This next step proves to be even harder, and the feeling that we may have overpacked starts to make its first appearance in the back of our minds. A few hours of stuffing and sorting and we eventually have everything into, clipped to, or balanced on our packs. Time for a beer.

Shortly after stupid o'clock the next morning, we help each other carry our packs to the truck and drive up the windy mountain road to Crescent Meadow. At the trailhead there are bear-proof storage boxes in which we stored our scented items that we weren't taking. It seems that the bears here break into cars, just like my neighbour's friends do. No more stalling, it's time to begin our adventure in earnest.

The first section of the High Sierra Trail takes you through beautiful Sequoia groves with soft, pine-needle trails, then ejects you onto canyon edges with eternal panoramic views. Or so I'm told, I couldn't lift my head as my pack was too heavy. We took regular breaks, but ignored the burning feet and sore shoulders. We were here to hike, not complain! The pain was beginning to be unbearable, but it could only get better -- we were going to eat the food in our packs, break in our boots, and be in far better shape by tomorrow!

It's tomorrow, and we hurt. Due to the heat (100F) and altitude (over 10,000 feet) we have lost our appitite, so our packs don't weigh any less. Blisters have formed on my feet as my two training hikes of an hour each weren't enough to break in my boots. My shoulders are so sore that putting on the pack feels like receiving acupuncture from a manic depressive bear. Bravado wins in the end, and we manage to get going after a lot of creaking joints from me, and various old-man noises from Ian. "chin-up" we're told from fellow hikers: there's a beautiful lake ahead where we can stop for lunch and go for a swim. It's uphill all the way, but so is most of this trail, especially on the way back.

Despite our body's best efforts, we make it to Hamilton Lake. Everyone says it's beautiful, but we're in too much pain to notice. A lunch-time meeting is in order. After weighing the pros and cons, so we decide that we just can't continue. Suddenly a weight is lifted off our shoulders (literally and figuratively) and we start to notice the beauty around us. We set up camp, and decide to spend a few days at the lake, day hiking and swimming. For the first time in days we're having fun, smiling, and absorbing the incredible scenery. A day hike takes us to the top of Kaweah Gap (10,700 feet) and we realize that we never would have been able to drag our packs up to this height. The decision, although painful to make, was the right one.

The next day we hike back to the truck, covering the distance in one long day. We agree to make ourselves remember how painful this was, and make a pact to remind each other of this if someone suggests we try it again in five years. The drive home is uneventful, the Sierras put behind us and our regular lives resumed.